Re: Shortening Working Cuffs on a Jacket
I thrifted three coats where this was an issue, just last week. My tailor took in what cuff he could and then subtlety slanted the cuffs so there was a little more length where the working buttons on the cuff sat. Turned out as nice as I could have hoped. No sense in paying $150 to have the sleeves taken in at the shoulders on a coat I got for $25-30.
Yeah, it often depends where the manufacturer puts those buttonholes. Still, I’d prefer they not have them at all and save me the headache. Thanks for chiming in.
My fashionista roommate has been urging me to start tucking in my shirts on a more regular basis to step up my style game. And I was going to, but then I read this article by some guy who says different.
This article totally feeds into my predisposed attitude of remaining in the world of the untucked. I’m so confused!
My roommate brought this article to my attention and I think it’s worth discussing.
First, they don’t give four reasons why one shouldn’t tuck in a button-down dress shirt (or sport shirt, for that matter). Instead, they give four different shirts that they think guys shouldn’t tuck in.
Frankly, I agree that T-shirts, sweaters and sports jerseys shouldn’t be tucked into your pants if they are your main outer layer. As for button-down shirts, I still maintain that they should be tucked in a majority of the time.
I completely disagree with their logic here:
Unless you’re 6’3” and 200 lbs. or less — let the panels loose. The way button down shirts are cut; they simply do not flatter most male physiques. Especially those of the average American male in his 30’s. Yes, this means you. You have to be a lean, mean fighting machine to get away with the ultra tight tuck. And even then it rarely looks great.
First off, if you’re a heavier guy, then you definitely need to tuck your shirt in. If you don’t do that, then the ends of your shirt will drape over your midsection like a dress.
Third, and this point didn’t really even come up in the article’s argument, but tucking your shirt in just will look better. It looks less sloppy and more put together.
Can you ever have your shirt untucked? Sure. Typically, I’ll leave my OCBDs untucked if I’m running around outside of work or just lounging around the apartment. But most times if I’m making the effort to go anywhere to meet someone specific, sit down to eat or out to an event of any sort, I’ll tuck my shirt in. The lines are cleaner and the belt acts as a visual separation between the upper and lower body. I feel the lack of a visible waist often gives a person a shapelessness look.
Anyone else have thoughts? Chime in and I’ll add your comments to this post.
The length of the shirt is also an important consideration in the tucking/not tucking debate. If it’s too long, you look like you’re wearing a dress. If it’s too short, you look like you’re wearing a girl’s shirt.
Agreed. I think the rule of thumb is if the shirt tail hits or goes past the crotch of your pants, then it needs to be tucked in.
The thing about that untuck article is that he doesn’t specify what type of pants he’s pairing it with. And since he’s also talking about sports jerseys and t-shirts, I’m just going to go out on a limb and assume he’s talking about jeans.
I don’t think it’s impossible to pull off a button-up with jeans, but I’d say it’s harder than with slacks or chinos. I’m seeing his audience as the people I see around the mall, the 30-50 year old dad wearing BLUE jeans, with a button-up or t-shirt tucked in, and I will say that it would absolutely look better untucked.
This is true. I think if the dress shirt’s tucked into jeans and a sport coat or blazer is worn over it, then you’re good. But by itself, it can look a bit odd, like you’ve not executed the high-low look very well. I think a more casual shirt looks better tucked into jeans.
I don’t think you can make a blanket statement either way about whether being tucked or untucked is more flattering to a man’s physique. It seems to me that it depends on at least three factors: 1) where excess weight is carried; 2) the cut of the shirt; 3) the rise of the pants. Overweight men don’t all carry the fat in the same places. I have love handles, rather than a gut. I find that untucked, they are more concealed. However, that also requires that the shirt is taken in a bit and doesn’t simply blouse from below my pits. If the shirt has some shape, then I don’t just look like a dumpus. Finally, it seems to me that rise is the great unconsidered factor here. Untucked, it doesn’t really matter. However, tucked in, on a very low rise can look bad if the shirt pulls out of the back, creating a blousing effect.
Ultimately, I think the choice needs to be made for each individual guy, with each combination of shirt and pants. Ideally, you have someone in your life with a good eye and honesty who can tell you which looks better.
Good point about the rise on the pants. Hadn’t occurred to me to think about that.
I know I’m late to the party, but I thought I’d add my $.02.
I’m surprised this is so contentious because I think it’s fairly simple. I stick to pretty much one rule, if the bottom hem is more than halfway down my fly zipper I always tuck. If it is shorter I might tuck, but might untuck depending on how casual my look is.
If my shirt is blousing, it’s probably a bit baggy anyway (I can’t afford to get everything tailored, so sue me) and won’t look any better untucked, just more shapeless and less blousey. Usually, if I’m having this problem, I just wear a jacket or vest over it.
Also, on a sidenote, none of his arguments have any merit. Nobody who’s the slightest bit interested in personal style tucks in t-shirts, jerseys or sweaters (unless they’re doing something extremely deliberate). Also, he’s talking about sports jerseys as being acceptable outside of a sporting event, how would you ever take this guy seriously?
Nothing to add to that, because I tend to agree with everything said.
For me, the worst part about summer isn’t the temperature or humidity, but rather being in close proximity to other people, whose natural body heat during this season tends to radiate. This isn’t to say that I don’t get hot or sweat, but I’m usually much more uncomfortable around other people than I would be by myself in the same conditions and temperature. Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do when you’re standing in line at the City Clerk’s office to renew your vehicle sticker or on a crowded “L” train headed home in the afternoon. At times like this, I tend to think of clothing as the barrier between me and other people’s sweaty radiation.
For Anon and general FYI: I've never worked with the tailor I contacted, but he came highly recommended by two fairly well-respected members on StyleForum. I wouldn't trust this kind of job to your typical alterationist (and I think mine would turn it down if I asked).
The tailor offered another approach: he'd actually shorten the sleeve from the cuff, create new button holes further up the sleeve, and sew up the old ones. A much more painstaking process (he sounded really reluctant to do it), but from what I've read, it's the sort of approach a really good tailor would take.
Disappointing ... but it did help me find a great tailor. Hoping to take in some more challenging projects to him.
Thanks for sharing that detail. I don’t mind paying for alterations, but $90 on an alteration like that really would give me a lot of pause and probably lead me to doing the same thing (returning the item or selling it off).
Went heavily on the Italian-inspired look today as several of my items are from that country, including the blue-cotton unconstructed blazer, the necktie (thrifted Canali), the grey tropical-wool trousers and the chocolate suede tassel loafers.
I decided to build off the last time I put a purple shirt with a blue coat and chose a lavender shirt. The tie has a two-tone blue woven base with a double white and slight pink/purple stripe to it. The pocket square has four purple tones, which kind of picks up the various purples used.
Two things you can’t notice about this fit:
My trousers need to be taken in at the waistline. Working out has paid off for the past month!
I don’t have a dark brown belt to match the shoes. Double-breasted jackets are great if you don’t have a matching belt. (Or if the bottom half of your tie has a stain.)
@ the LBM jacket post - can you not easily shorten the sleeves on a jacket with working cuff buttons?
It depends on a few things. First off, the stitching on the L.B.M. 1911 jackets on the cuff have a very particular style to them. My jacket has a very visible stitch into the cotton fabric that would look odd if the cuff stitching was removed and restitched.
Secondly, the working buttonholes makes it difficult to reduce the cuff by much. At best, you could go a small amount, but not before you hit the first button. If you go too far, then you’d have to fold a buttonhole under and the first button would be right on the edge on the cuff. It’d look weird and bad.
Finally, you best option normally would be to shorten the jacket at the shoulder/armhole, but the stitching of the natural shoulder of the jacket would be ruined. I’d be hesitant to do that and it’s also expensive.
So, that’s why I hate functioning/finished sleeves on expensive jackets where the company doesn’t offer “long” or “short” sizing for customers.
I have six pairs of unworn, brand new, 100-percent wool Pantherella socks that I’m looking to sell. They are size UK 9-11.5 (Euro 42-48, US 11-14). They’re yours for $70 shipped via USPS and I take PayPal. Email me if you’re interested.
I paid $75.95 for these via Gilt, so I’m taking a bit of loss here. Why am I getting rid of them? Because Gilt screwed up the sizing on their website. They listed the UK size as US sizes and the socks are too big. I can’t return them because I bought these via their waitlist, which is a final sale transaction. Way to go, copywriters.
I’d love to keep them, but they’re truly too big for me. I’m a size 10.5D and after taking one sock, placing it on my foot and it being way too baggy on my foot, I took it off and thought, “Well, damn.” Sizing aside, they’re wonderfully nice socks and dieworkwear was totally right about how sweet these are in texture. I’m kinda pissed I have to sell them and that I could’ve bought the socks in a smaller size back when they were in stock.
I have two pairs each of what Gilt describes as “light steel, air-force blue and dark grey”. They are all over-the-calf socks and the packaging says they’re 100-percent wool, although you should know that Gilt’s esteemed copywriter described them as a 90-10 wool-nylon blend. Who knows what the truth is, but they’re supposedly better than the higher nylon-content blends Pantherella’s using now in current sock stock.
So, if you have big feet and want to surround them in “fine English socks” of wool, email me.
It’s been kind of enlightening to look over the “keyword analysis” for this blog to see what search terms bring people to my site. A lot of it is based on product reviews, others are trying to find what looks like archived blog entries of a certain tumblr and still others are asking basic questions. The questions are perhaps the most interesting part, because I know I’ve typed a lot of dumb questions into Google myself and found answers that way. Here’s some interesting questions that might be obvious, but nonetheless were asked and my quick answers to these queries:
Q: Best suit fabric for hot humid climates?
A: Tropical wool, seersucker, fresco, mohair and linen.
Q: How to iron chinos crease?
A: Spray bottle, steam, patience and a hot iron.
Q: How much does it cost to get a tailor to hem pant legs in New York?
A: Probably between $10-18. Call one and ask.
Q: Untucked shirt?
A: Only if you want to go really, really casual. And it doesn’t look as good as tucking it in and wearing a belt like a grown up.
Q: Rod Blagojevich suits?
A: Custom tailored by Oxxford in Chicago.
Q: What happen after Brooks Brothers semi annual sale?
Not completely sure on the specifics of it. I found it on eBay from a seller who runs a menswear store in Japan and France and had a bunch of ties on clearance for $30-35 that were either New & Lingwood or this other mystery label — both made by the same company in Italy. The only label is on the small blade that states "Pierre Laget", which I believe is the name of his shop. For the price, it’s damn nice and it’s a floral print on a tie that I can get along with and wear.
The short answer is, for me, “It depends” with a complicated nuance toward, “Yes.”
If you’re the type of person who finds himself wearing a suit regularly to work, obviously a summer suit is necessary to you. Like the U.S. Senators above celebrating the annual Seersucker Thursday, some measure of decorum is required for their job and the weather dictates they find something to keep cool in while creating a hot fuss over legislation.
For those of us who work in less rigid environments that don’t have a dress code that requires a suit, I think the necessity (key word there) of a summer suit is questionable and very much reliant on your personal situation.
As both Derek and John pointed out, a blazer is probably in that “essential” category for most people, but a full-on suit I think requires a personal examination into your life and style over the summer.
For many of us, we won’t have very many opportunities to wear full suits throughout the summer. Sure, you could find occasions to wear one (or just wear one to wear one, if that’s your thing), but the necessity is dependent upon obligations you may find yourself under.
The most obvious such occasion would be if you’re at the point in your life where you’re attending weddings. Spending hours sweating in a suit that’s better worn in the other three seasons of the year is not how you should be spending your time celebrating the union of friends or family. I think a suit is necessary for wedding guests and a summer suit can come in handy if you’re finding yourself starting to receive “save-the-date” cards instructing you to mark your calendar during these months.
Still, even if you were just only going to a single wedding during the summer and find yourself struggling to see the utility of a summer suit and not finding occasions to wear it in full, then I think it’s worth bringing up the fact that many summer suits can be split up.
While I own a seersucker suit and have never worn the pants and jacket together, I have worn the pieces separately quite often. Just make sure to wear your jacket and pants equal number of times and you won’t wear one part out faster than the other. I think the idea that you can more-easily split up a summer suit to wear its elements casually is a nice value-add to the purchase. This doesn’t really help with the necessity argument for a summer suit, but it certainly doesn’t hurt it either.
So, to recap: Summer suits are necessary for those that find themselves in a situation of needing one — but it certainly can’t hurt to own, either.
Awesome that you're on the latest ep of Put This On, but now we know what your face looks like! :)
Not going to lie: it’s cool to even be remotely participating in that PTO episode. Thanks to Jesse for that! While it doesn’t bother me too much that people can see my face (which I’ve occasionally shown before here), it weirds me out to hear myself speak. Obviously, I won’t be a contestant on the next season of “The Voice”.
Come meet up with some new faces, familiar faces, and the like.
Another reminder for this because it’s going down this week. I think it’s always good to get out and meet some people from the Internet IRL. Stuff can get serious sometimes and gatherings like this are a great opportunity to keep things light and honest (we’re all just regular people who happen to have a strange obsession).
I am interested in going beyond a white pocket square. What colors and patterns do you recommend? Have you tried pocket squares from the Tie Bar?
RE: The Tie Bar pocket squares: I’ve bought one of their smaller silk ones. Definitely get the larger size. For the price, they’re OK. Right now I’m not too keen on their designs they’re offering. Haven’t tried the non-silk ones yet.
As for patterns and colors, that’ll really depend on several things: your existing ties, your shirts, your jackets/suits and even your socks if you want to go a bit nuts.
But let’s keep this simple, right? I typically base my pocket square off of my necktie’s pattern and colors. Say you’re wearing a basic white shirt with a navy necktie that has a red and white club stripe on it. In that case, I’d find a pocket square where the dominant color is red with some white and navy in it. Or a red square with white trimming. Or a white square with red dots.
In general, I avoid buying pocket squares that have similar patterns to shirts and ties I own. I have a lot of gingham pattern shirts, some striped shirts and a lot of ties with stripes. So, I go for solid squares (some with a contrast trim to play off a dominant tie color) and lots of squares with geometric or paisley prints on them.
Ideally, you want to compliment the dominant color of your tie or match the color of your shirt, or highlight a lesser thread color in your suit by making that the dominant pocket square color. With regards to pattern, you’ll want to probably find something that contrasts with your tie.
My advice would be to take a look at your most worn ties, shirts and jackets and go from there. Look at the colors you’re using for those elements and then look at the patterns.
For sale: Double Monks (Allen Edmonds Mora & Mezlan)
EDIT: Both sold. Thanks!
I’m selling both pairs of my double monks. They’re both about a half size too large for me and I’m not putting either into much of my shoe-wearing rotation. I figure they might find a better home with someone else.
One is an Allen Edmonds Mora, black calf, size 11 B:
The other is a vintage pair of Mezlans, brown, Made in Spain, 11 D:
The AE Moras are $175 and the Mezlans are $75. Both prices include shipping via USPS Priority within the United States. Extra shipping for international (truth be told, I’ll probably use a different carrier, like UPS, FedEx, etc. — we can talk). PayPal accepted as payment. Email me if you’re interested. Whatever I don’t sell here will then go on eBay.
For more photographs and details on the shoes please click “read more” — especially if you’re considering buying. Thanks!
Yoox offers a lot of great stuff, however, it’s got a very bad signal-to-noise ratio when it comes to finding the quality goods among the thousands of articles of clothing that might occupy a single category.
Here’s a filtered list of suits, blazers and trousers. You can certainly use it to find other stuff, including underwear (should you feel so inclined).
And here’s the list of brands I’ve included. Your mileage may vary, however, from this staring point it’s really easy for you to change it up. Please feel free to tell me brands that I may have missed and should include. I’ll update with changes.
Also, use coupon code “11birthday@yoox" to receive 15% off. (Thanks, thisfits.)
These used Allen Edmonds Moras ended on eBay for $400! That’s seriously insane. Did you guys read my buyer’s guide on double monks? You can get brand new Run of the Mill double monks for $405, and they’re made by one of the best cordwainers in Italy! You can even get brand new Carmina double monks from The Armoury for $575 and they’re one of the most handsome models on the planet! I mean, these are used Allen Edmonds shoes! These are things you find at Nordstrom Rack - brand new! - for like $100. I mean, come on buds. I’m really happy for you and Imma let you enjoy your double monks, but Carminas are one of the best double monks of all time.
The weekends during summer almost require you to wear your seersucker elements. I’m not the kind of person often tempted to wear seersucker in a jacket and trouser form together as a suit, but I’ll gladly split them up.
Navy chalk stripe linen-cotton blazer, red gingham button-down collar shirt, seersucker trousers and white bucks. Nothing too crazy, but a summer fit that’s definitely comfortable.
I'm a size 36 anon with narrow shoulders. The LEC stuff runs 38 tagged as the smallest, but the size Small shirts fit pretty well. Any hope a tailor might be able to salvage any of the blazers that are on sale?
I doubt it. Just speaking generally, jackets run 2” wider in the chest than the stated measurement. So, if you’re a 38R, then the actual garment itself will have a measurement of approximately 40” (pit-to-pit doubled). This allows for movement. Obviously, each jacket style is cut somewhat differently, but this is a pretty good rule of thumb.
This chest measurement also somewhat determines the shoulder measurement. Larger chest sizes mean larger shoulder widths. If you buy a jacket a size too large, generally it’ll look bad in the shoulders, which is the one thing you really want to fit well.
While you could ask a tailor to open up the back seam, take off the collar and resew it back on to make the shoulder width smaller, it’s going to be crazy expensive and not worth it. Rough estimate: $200.
LEC stuff fits slimmer, but not super slim. You could still try to buy it and then return it if the shoulders look like they’re not going to work. Lands’ End has a very good return policy. Odd are though that it’s not going to work out.
In this school of thought, you are looking to deal with the largest components before you even start worrying about the small details. While the details make an outfit, they are worthless if you don’t have the basics down pat. I’m going to walk you through a possible outfit with the types of things you can ask yourself.
Worth reading the whole thing. If you’re having trouble trying to figure out how to make an outfit work, this process simplifies it a bit.