Also, you should check out my posts sorted by topic — such as wedding attire, business casual and getting things altered by a tailor. Lots of good information there from people asking questions and responses I’ve given.
These days I tend to wear a uniform, however, you can check out my past WIWT archives if that interests you.
hi kiyoshi, ive slowly added a couple great blazers/sportcoats to my closet, but i have a hard time creating looks with them. something just looks off when i wear them with my current jeans, any recommendations you have for jeans/pants to create the casual blazer look?
I don’t do anything particularly special beyond what’s discussed there in terms of shining shoes. I try to shine them whenever they look like they could use a shine and I have the time to do so. I’m not a fanatic about keeping the original shades of color on my shoes, either, because I don’t mind the broken-in look of leather as the colors change over time from wearing them.
I don't know if you're much of the bowtie kind of guy, but where are some good places to get a bowtie in Chicago, within a reasonable price? I'm not particularly interested in the pre-tied/clip ons.
I’m not really a bowtie guy myself (basically, I end up really angry for half an hour trying to get it tied right), but I do have a few recommendations:
Cheap: The Tie Bar — Tons of options, all for $15. I would stay away from their satin silk ones, which tends to fray easily if you have rough/dry fingers. But the twill silk, wool and cotton ones should be just fine. And, each of their styles comes in self-tie.
Mid-range: The Cordial Churchman — If you’re the type of person who wants something hand-crafted in the U.S.A. and likes the idea of helping a husband and wife team grow their independent business, then this is a great choice. They’re home of the official Put This On bowtie and prices average around $30. Best of all, since each of them are handmade, you get to pick what kind of style you want (darted, classic, butterfly, etc.), which is a great touch.
If you’re into the more trad-ish, preppy look, then give J.Press a try. Their entire collection is on sale right now. Mountain & Sackett also has bowties in a similar price range.
Pricey: If you’re into the more dandy-ish appeal of a bowtie, then I’d suggest checking out Fine & Dandy Shop and Shrine Haberdashers. The patterns at these places are a bit more unique and bolder, in my opinion.
If you’re into more casual fabrics and vintage appeal, General Knot Co. is worth taking a look at, where they use deadstock fabrics from decades ago to create more casual neckwear. Definitely rare patterns that are unlikely to be seen worn by many others.
So, it’s finally been published! (Well, at least part one in a series). Took me forever to get around to writing it, but I feel pretty good the way it has turned out.
Thanks to Jesse for inviting me to write this series for Put This On and Derek for the much-needed and always-welcomed editing and revisions.
The series will be published over the next two weeks. I have other ideas that didn’t quite make the cut for this series on this go-around, but definitely expand on the whole Ramen Noodle Budget idea with more detail and depth. We’ll see if something happens with those in the future.
I hope you’ll enjoy it and feedback is always welcome. Thanks!
Been liking the Filson Mackinaw Cruiser for awhile now but waiting for them to restock in my size. Do you think it can look good wearing it over a sportcoat? Overcoats aren't really my style and I'm looking for a good substitute. I tend not to dress up my sportcoats while only wearing them with jeans/chinos. Looking into the Forest Green color. I'm a college student so majority of my outfits are always casual. Would it work? Would that color go with anything I wear under it?
That coat looks pretty good and warm, too. Not sure it would be long enough to wear over a sport coat though. As for color, charcoal would probably be the safest, however, I wear a military OD green field jacket over my sport coats all the time, so forest green should be just fine.
I’ve worn my filson Mac over a blazer before. The coat swallows the blazer so that it is invisible underneath. Not much sartorial value in layering. However the coat is thick as a thumb and never disappoints in the warmth dept. For the record mine is navy.
My best fitting shirt that runs by neck/sleeve not by a tag fits me at 17" on the highest pout of the shoulders. Can I base this measurement on my sportcoats?
You really ought to measure off a sportcoat that fits you well instead. And even that measurement can vary based on the amount of padding in the shoulders.
Here’s an idea: Get a tailor’s tape measure, get to a retail store and find a jacket that fits you in the shoulders. Then, measure it’s shoulder width and take note of its shoulder construction. Boom, you got a measurement to work from in the future.
Re: the posts about jcrew outerwear and mayfair topcoats - i just bought a mayfair coat in a size bigger than i normally wear for jcrew to acommodate fitting a sportcoat or suit jacket underneath. I guess i had planned for it to be my overcoat for the rest of winter. When i got it though, i immediately noticed it having jcrews signature skinny lapels. They are tiny and i feel slightly odd with them on the coat. Am i nitpicking at an otherwise fine piece or are there certain rules for overcoats?
I don’t think there are very different rules for overcoats. Really, it’s just a subjective matter of taste. If you can live with it, then keep it. If you can’t, then return it. I would say though that skinny lapels on larger chests could look kind of weird. Then again, Jon Hamm wears skinny lapeled sack suits on “Mad Men” and hardly could be confused for a guy with a small torso and still manages to look great. But that could be because he’s Don Draper.
Can you offer any advice on dub monks? I've got myself narrowed down to two choices--either the Allen Edmonds custom-made Moras, or a pair of Sid Mashburn's. There's an ~$150 price point differential; do the quality of the Mashburns really oustrip the AEs to justify the additional cost? For the record, I'm buying this pair as an 'investment' into my permanent wardrobe; my goal is to make them my go-to dress shoe.
I think the AEs are a bit overpriced just because you have to custom-order them, which puts a premium price on them over what they would cost if they were just regularly part of the AE line.
The SMs are Alfred Sargents, which makes sense for the price offered.
The old saying is that you should buy the best you can afford. If you can buy SM/AS, then go for it. I do think they look much nicer, myself.
Although, I’d probably also look at Carmina at Epaulet and Herring Shakespeare IIs.
Hey Kiyoshi. Pretty basic question. Do you know if 100% cotton chinos would stretch in the seat? I picked up some hartford cotton trousers on deep sale via Mr Porter, and the only issue is a slightly too tight seat. Thought about sitting in warm water and just doing a couple lunges and hanging to dry - worked for my raw denim. Just don't want to try something and lose my return option.
Eh, that hasn’t really been the case in any chinos I own. If it’s too tight, then I’d suggest sending them back and maybe sizing up and have the waist taken in (if possible). Buying something that doesn’t fit often results in money wasted because you won’t wear it.
Thanks for the suggestions. Quick question I want it slim fitting. They offer a slim fitting Mayfair which I'm interested in. I live in NYC, should I opt for the slim fitting Mayfair or the Thinsulate Mayfair considering weather here can get bad. Would this jacket keep me warm whereas I can just get the slim fitting version?
No clue. I haven’t been to a J.Crew in a while. But ask yourself a few questions: Am I going to be layering underneath anyway? Am I able to tolerate cold weather?
Frankly, we get cold weather here in Chicago and I rarely reach for Thinsulate-lined stuff for commuting around. Unless I know I’m going to be outside for a long time (ie: digging my car out), then I just layer up and put on my overcoat. You won’t die as long as you keep moving and really just suck it up for a bit. Honestly, I’d be more worried about my toes than anything else getting cold.
the woman at nordstroms suggested i size down a pair in my sperry's, as they'll gradually stretch. what're the chances of this holding true?
Might be. Mine definitely started deforming to my feet after two summers of use (sockless, wearing them in rain and on the beach). Oddly enough though, mine are size 11 and I wear a 10.5D in Allen Edmonds shoes. So, take that for what it’s worth.
Do yourself a favor and hit up the Rio's buffet while your in Vegas. It's ridiculous.
Too late. Leaving in the morning. But, it should go without saying that all buffets are ridiculous. And all of Las Vegas is ridiculous. A buffet in Vegas? Double ridiculous. I’m still digesting tonight’s meal. Total gluttony.
I like wearing sportcoats but dislike dressing them up. I tend to wear them casually mostly with jeans most of the time. With the cold weather starting to kick in can you recommend me a coat that would compliment anytime I wear a blazer casually? Perferbally not long, mid thigh to little above the knee the most. Price range under $300 but would consider spending more if I have too. Thanks.
Check out J.Crew’s final sale for outerwear. There’s an extra 30% off when you use the coupon code WINTER. They’ve got your classic overcoat, a peacoat or their “university” coat, which should all work for your needs.
Not really. Work trip to network while CES was going on. Only had one beer the entire trip so far. Not complaining though, because I got to stop and check out the Kiton store, which had a $180 pocket square and a $5,000 navy blazer that made me die a little inside. Definitely some motivation to work harder and help build a successful company so one day I can maybe go back and actually buy something.
The 90-year-old company is licensing its first foreign retail stores in China. Luxury shoes manufactured in Wisconsin are going to be sold to consumers in China.
“China is growing so fast, and it’s such a sophisticated market already,” said Paul Grangaard, president and chief executive officer of Allen Edmonds. ’Made in America’ has a really strong reputation there.”
Allen Edmonds signed a 10-year retail agreement with Shanghai-based clothing and footwear sourcing company Talent Creations on Nov. 1. The company’s first Allen Edmonds licensed store is expected to open in late spring 2012 in Shanghai.
Doing a second pass through the wardrobe again to sell off some more stuff. These are all vintage items which I’ve gotten altered for a trimmer fit (ie: waist suppression) and in many cases had the sleeves let out. All are in great condition, but despite alterations, they just don’t fit me as well as I’d like (typically because of the sleeves or the jacket’s hem length).
The one exception would be the madras blazer, which hasn’t been altered by me since I bought it. The donegal tweed suit fits me well, however, I already have another donegal tweed suit and brown just isn’t my color, despite its great fit.
If you’re interested in an item: e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org. I take PayPal, ship via USPS w/ delivery confirmation. Prices do not include shipping, but I do try to be fair and ship multiple items together.
Cashmere navy blazer — $75 — Super-soft cashmere jacket that has a trim cut, is fully lined, single-vented and has 3.75” lapels. Three interior pockets and flap-front pockets. Labeled “Club Room” (completely different label than the current in-house Macy’s brand, definitely a vintage jacket) and has “100% pure cashmere” label”
Sleeve: 25” +1.5”
Madras sport coat — $50 — For those looking for a bold, go-to-hell jacket in the summer, this is a classic option. Super-breathable cotton madras with half-lining. Single vented, two interior pockets, flap-front pockets and 3.5” lapels. Unaltered by me. Labels include “Gordon of Philadelphia” and “Sportables by Martin Burns Gentlemen’s Fashion Counselors”
Sleeve: 25” +1.5”
Donegal tweed suit — $250 — A vintage brown donegal tweed suit that’s got a faint orange and blue windowpane pattern. Trim cut, modest lapels and is in superb condition. Even the pockets have pattern matching. Single vent, two interior pockets, flap-front pockets and half-lined on the jacket. Trousers are flat front and unlined with a welt and buttoned rear pockets. Tagged “John Alexander Designer’s Collection” for B&F Toggery Springfield, IL”. Looks great with suede shoes or brown brogues, a blue shirt, dark-blue tie and orange square.
Waist: 34” +1.25”
Inseam: 30.25” +2.5”
Leg opening: 8.25”
Below the cut, leftover, unsold items from the last round of my sale. Feel free to browse them, too.