The Silentist - Menswear, Men's Style, Reviews

month

March 2012

112 posts

Addressing the backlog → thesilentist.tumblr.com

Going to start working my way through the backlog of questions in a bit (also going to go back and tag all the posts I’ve neglected to tag). 

So, if you have a question, then feel free to ask.

Mar 31, 20121 note
Mar 30, 201255 notes
#presidential style
Hello, Kiyoshi! Could you please give an advice on where to find affordable yet quality, classy transitional outwear? Trench coat or a light wool overcoat or maybe something else that would look good with a hat and nice shoes, not a harrington or an anorak. On-line. If you say "ebay", could you please advise on what to look for? ~ 300 dollar-ish. Thanks a lot!

With your budget, it’s worth checking out the sale section of Brooks Brothers right now, where you’ll find this trench coat. Right in your price range. 

Otherwise, you can find some Barbour jackets for about that price range (or cheaper) on eBay UK. I picked up a Beaufort this week for $230, barely used and looks like it’s in great condition. 

Mar 26, 20123 notes
On my thrift-store-and-ebay budget, it's hard to find anything linen (pants, coats, shirts, suits) of any quality, but there's always a lot of linen-cotton blend items. Are these going to be summer-in-Chicago appropriate? I'm sure they won't be as cool as pure linen, but would they be so close to regular chino, for example, as not to be worth owning for the summer months?

Linen-cotton is actually preferable to me to linen. It wrinkles slightly less and is still cool enough to wear in the heat. I’ve got a few linen-cotton blended jackets and they work just fine. I’ll probably try to get some linen-cotton shirting, too. 

Mar 26, 20121 note
For the smaller guy, he really should consider shopping in the boys section (I know you've recommended this before too). I'm a student so financially, I haven't been able to do anything but thrift, but I do still have casual button ups from when I was younger. I'm 5'7", skinny, and 33" sleeves. A boys 20 usually fits quite slim and the neck and shoulders should be about right for him. If he's 5'9" or taller, he might have to worry about body length.

Attention smaller/shorter people, this anon has been quite helpful. 

Mar 26, 20123 notes
I hope you had a good time at SXSW! (I'm from Austin) I am a little new to all this stuff but I love the blog. I was wondering if Land's End ever has jackets that are 36S?

Austin was fun — catching the inevitable cold after 10 days on a weakened immune system from drinking/staying out too much was less so on the plane ride back. Still, I think going there for college would’ve been a complete blast. Helluva scene there.

Lands’ End really only does short and long sizing for their “traditional” fit line of suits — not their tailored fit. 

If you can up your budget some more, might be worth checking out Suit Supply, which has a lot of options in your size.

Mar 26, 20120 notes
Hey there Silentist - any suggestions for a lightweight spring/summer blazer (cotton, chino, etc) that would fit a guy with a 35" chest? My best-fitting wool blazer measures 17" across the shoulder seams, and it's still just barely on the large side. I love the casual look of the LL Bean stonewashed cotton blazer, but sounds like it runs large in the shoulders.

Someone out there just needs to start a blog for small/short people, because this isn’t really my wheelhouse — and it’s tough to find stuff for short/small people. 

I would take a look on Yoox and maybe try to find something in a 36 in their blazers section. Lots of those brands tend to fit slimmer and some are cut a bit shorter. Baring that, you could hit up the boys section of Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren, as is often suggested — cheaper and still good quality. 

Also, Suit Supply has jackets as small as 35.

Mar 26, 20121 note
I am interested in purchasing my first solid navy and grey suits from Suit Supply. What do you think of the Napoli Pure Wool S110's suits?

Well, the suit certainly looks nice. I think it’s a great price. 

But I’ve never handled a Suit Supply suit or worn one. And really, it all comes down to how it looks on you and if you like how it fits with some alterations (should they be needed). 

Truthfully, I’ve often seen things that I thought looked great online, bought them and then tried them on and found they didn’t really work for me. It’s disappointing and you’ll never really know until you actually can wear it — that’s the reality. 

But those suits sure do look nice, I’ll say that much.

Mar 26, 20122 notes
Mar 26, 2012103 notes
Mar 26, 20129 notes
Mar 24, 2012656 notes
#frank sinatra
know any watches that are cheap but look expensive and bawse (yes i said bawse for boss)

Seiko 5 divers often get touted as a pretty good deal, especially if you score them on eBay. 

I just have a regular vintage Seiko 17J automatic that I like and got off eBay. 

On the super cheap end, the Timex Easy Reader looks pretty clean. My brother has a plain-faced watch from Nixon that looks nice, too. 

Mar 24, 20127 notes
What would be some affordable linen trousers then? Epaulet has them around $200 even Land's End has them at $170.

I’d keep an eye at Howard Yount, which has them around the $175 range and will probably be getting in a larger stock soon. 

Nordstrom has some for $125, but you’ll probably want to get them tapered at a tailor. 

But, the real deal to be found on trousers is Brooks Brothers Black Fleece on sale. You’ll have to figure out your size, but they’re on sale at around $105-120 right now.

Mar 24, 20121 note
How did you dress in high school?

Imagine a skinny nerdy kid who was into science fiction, PC gaming, punk music, chess club and Chuck Palahniuk — and wore T-shirts reflecting those types of interests along with baggy chinos and jeans, hoodies and skater shoes. 

Mar 24, 201211 notes
I know you're not a shorts guy but maybe you can post and folks can help out. I'm over the cargo shorts thing and looking for some casual khaki shorts for spring summer. I'm not a huge fan of showing off a ton of thigh (too fair skinned... blinding) so maybe top of the knee length? Any leads would be great.

It’s really hard for me to give great advice here. And you really won’t know how these shorts fit from any retailer until you try them on. 

I’d be tempted to tell people to go with someone with a more traditional styling like Brooks Brothers, but paying $85 for shorts just strikes me as something really stupid. Lands’ End Canvas makes a bit more sense for $40.

Still, I think shorts rarely look great on most guys. You don’t get clean lines like you would from trousers, and you can always achieve the same level of “staying cool” from lightweight chinos and linen trousers. 

Mar 24, 20122 notes
I like how my 514s fit from the knee up, but the way 511s fit from the knee down. Any suggestions for jeans or chinos that fit the bill? Feel free to refer if you know any more denimheaded friends.

Hey denim people: help this dude out.

dieworkwear says:

That guy should just taper his jeans. Anything from the knee down can be altered by a competent tailor.

Agreed. This might be a pretty simple/cheap solution.

Mar 23, 20125 notes
how are your 3sixteens? have been eyeing them for a while, haven't yet decided to pull the trigger though. are there any levi's fits that they most closely resemble? just thought i'd ask :)

Definitely a fan. They haven’t fully broken in yet though. 

In terms of fit, I can’t emphasize enough getting to a place where you can try them on for yourself. I got the SL-100x, which has a straight leg. It’s a narrower leg than a Levi’s 501, slightly lowered rise. 

I also tried on the ST-100x, but they were just way too tight (and I consider myself to have rather average leg widths) in the thigh area. 

I’ll also mention that my co-worker has been breaking in a pair of their shadow denim, and they’re damned cool looking. 

If you’re in Chicago, hit up Haberdash. If you’re in LA, NYC or SF, then hit up Self Edge. 

Mar 23, 20121 note
What do you think about the colored chino and denim trend? Even gap, old navy, and J Crew have caught on. Do you have any suggestions in this department? Thanks!

If you don’t have basic colors already, then get those first, ie: dark denim and khaki chinos. 

If you’ve got those down pat, then feel free to get what you think works for you. 

Generally speaking though, colored chinos are extremely casual (what I’d call “weekend wear”) and colored denim is a bit more like streetwear to me (outside of white denim). That’s just my take on it though. 

I have a pair of red chinos that I like to wear once in a while during the summer. It’s a good GTH piece.

Mar 23, 20122 notes
I need to stock up on a shirts - dress, OCBD, casual, etc. I'm a 35" chest, 14.5" neck, 32" sleeve, skinny with narrow shoulders. BB ESF is too big in the shoulders and a too baggy in the chest and waist. J. Crew's dress shirt in a 14.5/33 is good in the neck, but baggy in the chest/armpits, and the shoulders are a smidge wide. The best I've found is J. Crew XS-sized casual shirts. Great fit but the neck is way too small to button. Can't afford M2M - anything ideas?

Maybe give Rugby a shot (there’s a student discount). Not too sure about anything else out there. 

Any other smaller guys got suggestions?

Mar 23, 20122 notes
Love your blog; it's become a daily must-read. Any recommendations (or sources) for leather watch bands? I'm looking to replace the Speidel band on my 1950s Omega Seamaster that I Ebayed. Thanks in advance!

Check out David Lane Design.

Mar 23, 20121 note
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