07
Dec
vandafineclothing:

081213 is just about half a day away! Please note that our workshop will be closed tomorrow for a private event - no prizes for guessing what the event is!We also have something quite special planned for this joyful occasion. Trust us, this will be one Sunday that you’ll probably want to check in to our website…A tiny hint: Diana and I are feeling rather happy and generous this weekend

A huge congratulations to Diana & Gerald, my two favorite #menswear artisans! May you both have many happy years together in your future.

vandafineclothing:

081213 is just about half a day away! 

Please note that our workshop will be closed tomorrow for a private event - no prizes for guessing what the event is!

We also have something quite special planned for this joyful occasion. Trust us, this will be one Sunday that you’ll probably want to check in to our website…

A tiny hint: Diana and I are feeling rather happy and generous this weekend

A huge congratulations to Diana & Gerald, my two favorite #menswear artisans! May you both have many happy years together in your future.

30
Nov
acutestyle:

11.29.13
Black Watch Friday
Outerwear. 

Eric won today. Everyone else should’ve just stayed home.

acutestyle:

11.29.13

Black Watch Friday

Outerwear. 

Eric won today. Everyone else should’ve just stayed home.

26
Nov
New sport coat and trousers — Finally got around to photographing these despite wearing them for a while now. A brown glen plaid with blue overcheck in a cashmere-wool-silk blend from Carlo Barbera, done in a 3-roll-2 triple open-patch pocket configuration. Other details include dual vents, light tan horn buttons and quarter lining. Again, made through the Khaki’s of Carmel custom program. 
The trousers are a donegal blue tweed from the J. Lawrence line at the store. I originally planned to wear this jacket with dark brown moleskins or corduroys, but these trousers worked perfectly. The fit is slightly slimmer than the J. Lawrence chinos and has a lowered rise. I was mildly concerned about the coarseness of the fabric, but they’re half-lined and I wear over-the-calf socks, so it’s not noticeable at all. I wouldn’t mind a full suit in this fabric.
For shirts, I go between a checked shirt that has tan, brown and navy with an ancient madder paisley tie or a simple blue OCBD with a navy repp. 
The fabric choice surprised me and wasn’t one I’d initially considered (in fact, I wasn’t considering picking up an odd jacket at all), but I’m glad it came up in conversations over fabrics with Jim. It’s soft without being delicate. It differentiates itself without being too loud. It’s now a starting point for my thoughts toward color and pattern for an odd jacket in the spring. 

New sport coat and trousers — Finally got around to photographing these despite wearing them for a while now. A brown glen plaid with blue overcheck in a cashmere-wool-silk blend from Carlo Barbera, done in a 3-roll-2 triple open-patch pocket configuration. Other details include dual vents, light tan horn buttons and quarter lining. Again, made through the Khaki’s of Carmel custom program. 

The trousers are a donegal blue tweed from the J. Lawrence line at the store. I originally planned to wear this jacket with dark brown moleskins or corduroys, but these trousers worked perfectly. The fit is slightly slimmer than the J. Lawrence chinos and has a lowered rise. I was mildly concerned about the coarseness of the fabric, but they’re half-lined and I wear over-the-calf socks, so it’s not noticeable at all. I wouldn’t mind a full suit in this fabric.

For shirts, I go between a checked shirt that has tan, brown and navy with an ancient madder paisley tie or a simple blue OCBD with a navy repp. 

The fabric choice surprised me and wasn’t one I’d initially considered (in fact, I wasn’t considering picking up an odd jacket at all), but I’m glad it came up in conversations over fabrics with Jim. It’s soft without being delicate. It differentiates itself without being too loud. It’s now a starting point for my thoughts toward color and pattern for an odd jacket in the spring. 

19
Nov
calumet412:

The Chicago Tribune’s men’s fall fashion lineup, 1971, Chicago.

#chicagomenswear

calumet412:

The Chicago Tribune’s men’s fall fashion lineup, 1971, Chicago.

#chicagomenswear

(via atumblratrandom)

16
Nov
barbourpeople:

Malcolm’s only had his Barbour Jacket for about 40 years!

Get yours now so you, too, can have such an amazing looking jacket by the time you retire. 

barbourpeople:

Malcolm’s only had his Barbour Jacket for about 40 years!

Get yours now so you, too, can have such an amazing looking jacket by the time you retire. 

(via thornproof)

16
Nov
voxsart:

That’s Right: The Seersucker Roll Lapel Dinner Jacket.
Joseph Cotten, with Olivia de Havilland, 1964.

Sincerely wondering what trousers one would wear with such a jacket, but this has suddenly created a new want where there previously wasn’t one.

voxsart:

That’s Right: The Seersucker Roll Lapel Dinner Jacket.

Joseph Cotten, with Olivia de Havilland, 1964.

Sincerely wondering what trousers one would wear with such a jacket, but this has suddenly created a new want where there previously wasn’t one.

14
Nov
Can we talk about how great Kanye’s tuxedo is for a moment?
Double-breasted 2x1 configuration
Big shawl lapels that are fat along the bottom instead of the collar
And turn-back cuffs (nope, I think that’s a shadow)
I sincerely miss Kanye’s “Rosewood” movement. 

Can we talk about how great Kanye’s tuxedo is for a moment?

  • Double-breasted 2x1 configuration
  • Big shawl lapels that are fat along the bottom instead of the collar
  • And turn-back cuffs (nope, I think that’s a shadow)

I sincerely miss Kanye’s “Rosewood” movement. 

(via alexandergrant)

11
Nov
17 Mile Drive — This was the last photo I took today while making my way along the historic 17 Mile Drive. Despite being in the area more than six months, I haven’t seen this portion of the shoreline and decided to spend the day checking it out. Shortly after this photo was taken, a giant set of waves not only soaked my legs, but also overtook my camera from its perch on the rocks and plunged it into the ocean to mix with salt water and sand particles. It is no longer functional.  

17 Mile Drive — This was the last photo I took today while making my way along the historic 17 Mile Drive. Despite being in the area more than six months, I haven’t seen this portion of the shoreline and decided to spend the day checking it out. Shortly after this photo was taken, a giant set of waves not only soaked my legs, but also overtook my camera from its perch on the rocks and plunged it into the ocean to mix with salt water and sand particles. It is no longer functional.  

01
Nov
New suit no. 2 — Another lightweight flannel (again from the Khaki’s of Carmel custom suit program), this time in a dark navy narrow double pinstripe. It’s even lighter than the first. Nothing out of the ordinary here: notch lapels, two-button, flap pockets, dual vents, quarter lined interior and flat front pants with 1.75” cuffs. 
Today’s also the first day of my friend Ernest's #NoDN, so it’s a good excuse as any for a selfie. 

New suit no. 2 — Another lightweight flannel (again from the Khaki’s of Carmel custom suit program), this time in a dark navy narrow double pinstripe. It’s even lighter than the first. Nothing out of the ordinary here: notch lapels, two-button, flap pockets, dual vents, quarter lined interior and flat front pants with 1.75” cuffs. 

Today’s also the first day of my friend Ernest's #NoDN, so it’s a good excuse as any for a selfie. 

23
Oct

Did you ever end up finding a suitable pair of non blackwatch odd tuxedo trousers? I am looking myself and club Monaco has the perfect pattern but they are cotton, flat front and don't have an extended tab closure :/

I did, actually, in Holland & Sherry’s formalwear fabric book. They seemed like an expensive indulgence that would only give me half of what I really wanted: a full black tie rig.

So, I’m having a new custom tuxedo made for me in a beautiful midnight navy from Huddersfield. I’m not sure if it’ll be ready by New Year’s Eve, but the end result will be worth it. 

I probably wouldn’t consider trying to pull off the cotton look from Club Monaco — especially without silk piping along the legs. Also, I’d prefer the pockets be along the seam instead of slanted. 

I’ve now gone full Ralph Lipshitz and started wearing my orphaned tuxedo jacket with denim and velvet slippers. This has only made me more reckless when wearing “cowboy black tie”. It would probably look really dumb at an official black-tie function, but it’s perfectly fine for karaoke on a weeknight.

23
Oct
17
Oct

WIWT: 10-17-2013 —  Explored the beach beneath the hotels between Cannery Row and San Carlos Beach. 

17
Oct

New suit no. 1 — Lightweight grey flannel with a subtle double-stripe through Khaki’s of Carmel's made-to-measure program. Fully canvased, two-button, notch lapel, dual-vent, dark horn buttons, natural shoulder, quarter-lined (in navy with white polka dots) and trousers with a slight break and 1.75” cuffs. 

17
Oct
dimshapes:

Andy Warhol, two uncut photobooth polaroid self-portraits, early 1960s, Estimate $12,000 to $18,000.

The slim peak lapel and slim bowtie look done without irony. 

dimshapes:

Andy Warhol, two uncut photobooth polaroid self-portraits, early 1960s, Estimate $12,000 to $18,000.

The slim peak lapel and slim bowtie look done without irony. 

13
Oct

Sundays before sundown — Along the Pacific.

About The Silentist

A menswear blog on finding your personal style, written by Kiyoshi Martinez.

I work at Khaki's of Carmel and live in the Monterey Bay area. Formerly from Chicago.

E-mail me, I'm fairly nice: thesilentist@gmail.com

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