I've read that the shoulder seam on a jacket should fall right around where my shoulder ends. My shoulder falls in a gentle slope away from my neck, then hits an abrupt point at the end of my (shoulder?) bone, then curves out. Does my shoulder end where the bone ends, or at the outermost part of the curve just below? (Does that make sense?) Second, when my jacket is buttoned, what's the ballpark range of distance I should be going for between the button and my stomach? Great blog, by the way.

- Asked by Anonymous

I would say where your bone ends. The curve, if I’m understanding correctly, would be a bit too far out, and if you have a padded, constructed shoulder with it terminating at that point, it’d probably look slightly too big.

As for button stance, I sort of addressed this earlier, but you probably want the button somewhat near your navel. Now, if you’re talking about the distance between your stomach and the fabric of the jacket itself (ie: parallel planes of the jacket and stomach), I’d says around 1” or so? It really just depends how much you like the waist suppressed on your jacket. I prefer it to be moderately trim, however, I like to make sure I can still move around and that the fabric isn’t “pinching” at the waist and stretched to the point it causes ripples.

This should help.

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A menswear blog on finding your personal style, written by Kiyoshi Martinez.

I work at Khaki's of Carmel and live in the Monterey Bay area. Formerly from Chicago.

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