Asked & Answered: 05-29-2012

Time for another round of questions received from anonymous askers. Feel free to ask your own or e-mail me. 

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Jacket linings: Your seersucker roundup was great! But I have a question about lining. Does a jacket in a summer fabric actually feel any cooler than my regular worsted wool suit jackets if it’s lined? Should I only be looking for summer suits that are unlined or partially lined? Thanks!

I’d highly recommend looking for jackets with partial or half lining at most, preferably unlined if you can find it. The one exception, however, would be cupro-lined jackets. (You might also know cupro by its commercial name: Bemberg.)

Cupro is actually a type of rayon, however, unlike other synthetic materials it’s made from pulp of either cotton or wood fibers (my research is sketchy on the matter). So, it breathes better and is more durable than polyester — some claim it breathes better than silk. 

Still, the fewer layers you’re wearing, the cooler you may likely be. Another thing I would look for, or consider having a tailor install, would be sweat guards under the armpits. 

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Definitions: Kiyoshi, what’s the difference between cut and fit? I get these two terms confused.

Fit refers to how a garment envelops your body. Cut refers to how the designer shapes the cloth. 

Taking the example of a suit jacket, the fit would be where the shoulders are, the length of the sleeves, the sizing of the jacket; whereas the cut would refer to things such as how trim the jacket is around the torso, if the hem length is shorter or longer, tapering in the sleeves, drape in the chest, where the gorge is placed, the shape of the lapels, etc. 

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Chelsea boots: Kiyoshi, do you have any suggestions for a pair of Chelsea boots (price range: $100-300). I’m aware of the higher end stuff (John Lobb, Carmina, and the other ones), but I’m looking for something more in this price range. Suggestions?

I would check out Herring Shoes or Shipton & Heneage.

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Chinos: Which brands sell dress and casual chinos that sit on the hips not “just below the hips”?

I’d check out Lands’ End mainline and Epaulet. Maybe Howard Yount’s new made-in-the-U.S.A. trousers, too. You really won’t know until you try a bunch of stuff on.

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Shoe scuffs: Got around to buying my first nice pair of dress shoes for a gaggle of weddings I’ve got on the horizon. I rocked them out for the first one on the calendar, and lo and behold I ended up with a pretty good scuff on the toe right off the bat. Obviously I can’t get rid of it, but is there anything I can do to help it out/hide it a bit? Polish them? Buff them? I’m at a loss.

Looks like you’re in for a fun time with some elbow grease and shoe polish. Just keep in mind that nothing stays perfect forever. You can either fight to keep things pristine your entire life, or accept the flaws as they come along.