WIWT: 08-09-2012 — I went to visit the tailor today to pick up two pairs of white linen trousers I was having altered around the thigh and seat area. He remarked to me, “How many pairs of white pants you do have?!” when he saw my white jeans. 

Oddly enough, I don’t care much for the white denim in this outfit and would’ve preferred to have worn the trousers instead. Denim, in my mind, doesn’t always work with some sportcoats — including this one. 

The jacket has structured shoulders on it, making it slightly more formal than an unconstructed or soft-shouldered jacket. It’s for this reason that I also think it must be worn with a necktie. I picked the knit tie for its pattern, to contrast against the solids that surrounded it, and for it’s texture, which also contrasts with the linen jacket and linen shirt. Still, it remains monochromatic. 

The pocket square I picked to specifically break the monochromatic scheme, yet its gold color easily compliments the navy in the tie and the blue in the rest of the outfit. The silk’s sheen also contrasts against the slubby, flat texture of the linens. I tend to think that silk goes best with sportcoats made of highly textured casual fabrics like linen and tweed. 

But those jeans are not ideal.  I don’t think the denim fits with the structured jacket, even if the color is right. It doesn’t feel cohesive or correct the more I think about it and trousers would’ve been a more optimal pick. I’ve worn this look several times and hadn’t come to that conclusion until now. 

I think many posters of WIWT shots could stand to be more self-critical of what they’re wearing (notice, I’m not saying you should go and be critical of others), and ask themselves if their entire outfit is cohesive. This is something I’ve begun to do more lately, asking myself if I’m just throwing things together or if parts are built to work with each other in the best way possible. Admit to some places where you’ve fallen short, perhaps because you’re copying streetstyle shots of people peacocking. 

I know I definitely copied this look straight out of photos from Pitti Uomo, but I didn’t ever give much thought to if it’s coherent. The colors and fit might be there, but the details of the type of jacket this is throws the choice off balance and is in need of adjustment. 

If I were to really nitpick, the buttons on the jacket need to be replaced, too. They’re actually a super dark blue, but look like black from afar. Considering the jacket’s color, it’s meant more for wear during the day and would benefit from either brown horn or even mother-of-pearl buttons. I’ll replace them eventually. 

Fit details:

  • Jacket: John W. Nordstrom blue linen
  • Shirt: Spoon Tailor MTM light blue linen
  • Tie: Suit Supply navy w/ white stripe cotton knit
  • Square: Ashear (vintage)
  • Pants: Levi’s 501 white denim (tapered)
  • Belt: Filson
  • Shoes: Cerbero chocolate suede tassel loafers

45 Notes

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  13. eclecticstyles said: Once again, I appreciate the insight provided by your WIWT posts.
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  15. dieworkwear said: Nice shade of blue.
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About The Silentist

A menswear blog on finding your personal style, written by Kiyoshi Martinez.

I work at Khaki's of Carmel and live in the Monterey Bay area. Formerly from Chicago.

E-mail me, I'm fairly nice: thesilentist@gmail.com

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