10
Jun

this is by no means a criticism, just something i've been wondering-
why are your jackets so very much more fitted than your pants? it seems on tops you're going for a much tailored look that isnt quite mirrored by your bottom half. maybe im just catching it wrong, but what im talking about is sorta evident in your most recent wiwt.
and again, this definitely isnt a criticism, your shit is always on point.

- Asked by slothbearwolf

Just an FYI to everyone: I’m cool with criticism and critiques, so don’t go feeling like you’ll hurt my feelings or anything. (Obviously, don’t be a dick though, as there’s enough of those on the Internet.)

Anyway, I see your point on the pants. Just to throw out some numbers, I typically got 7.5-8” (laid flat) on my leg openings. A couple of chinos I have from Brooks Brothers (Milano cut) came at 8” and I thought they looked fine and weren’t worth having reduced down toward my usual 7.5”. Most of my other grey trousers are 7.5”.

Could I go narrower? Sure. I have a few that are 7”, but I feel like that’s just not me most of the time. It looks like I’m trying to squeeze my body into this pair of pants designed to look like a lookbook model, which is definitely not my body type by any means.

I’m a bit tall and lanky, but my thighs are kinda big, my waist and gut fluctuate with my alcohol intake and that’s just what I’m working with. (Sidebar: I gained 2” on the waist last month. That’s what happens when you can’t cook for yourself and drink four nights a week for a month.) Plus, I do feel a bit restricted by “skinnier” cuts and I feel a bit looser cut still looks all right and just gives me more — ahem — movement.

Typically, for most pants I get, I have the tailor take in the seat (maybe the waist if it needs it) to avoid having “diaper butt”, and taper the legs the whole way through. I could maybe ask for a greater taper, but it’d look weird as my thighs are substantially greater than my mid-calf area. So, this would mean it’d be tighter in the thighs, or I’d have a wide upper leg and a super narrow lower leg. I opt to keep it even throughout — starting at the leg opening.

I feel like some guys go for a really extreme taper on their clothing, which is slimming and all, but I think you need to have the body structure for that to pull it off (ie: Street Etiquette).

Do I have my alterations completely correct or at a level of perfection? Nope, but I think it’s a process of finding what works for your frame and being realistic. You can’t just carbon copy your fit from models. I think part of this whole thing is knowing yourself, being comfortable with it and choosing the right clothes to suit your lifestyle.

2 Notes

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About The Silentist

A menswear blog on finding your personal style, written by Kiyoshi Martinez.

I work at Khaki's of Carmel and live in the Monterey Bay area. Formerly from Chicago.

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