10
Jan

Custom New Balance 574 — Played around with the custom shoe maker tool tonight and made a design based around the colors of my sadly departed pet cockatiel, Rico. Sometimes nature gives you a good color palette to work with.

08
Jan
khakiscarmel:

Scarpe di Bianco
Scotch grain anima balmorals on the 3376 last.

These just came in today and they made me feel instantly envious. 

khakiscarmel:

Scarpe di Bianco

Scotch grain anima balmorals on the 3376 last.

These just came in today and they made me feel instantly envious. 

18
Jun
A vintage shoe rack from an English factory circa 1890. I’ve been looking for a shoe rack large enough to store my current (and future) shoe collection, however, the $1,500 price tag is out of my budget. 

A vintage shoe rack from an English factory circa 1890. I’ve been looking for a shoe rack large enough to store my current (and future) shoe collection, however, the $1,500 price tag is out of my budget. 

02
Apr

My friend edwinzee still has his pair of Run of the Mill (RIP) double-monks and Peal & Co. punched captoe balmorals for sale at quite reasonable prices. If you’re a size 9.5D, then you should go take a look and get in touch with him.

29
Mar

Massive 9.5D Shoe Sale!

My friend edwinzee is selling a bunch of his shoes and if you happen to be a 9.5D, then you should check them out. He’s even including shoe trees with them. 

All shoes are previously worn.  Click on the links for more details about each shoe.  Price includes shipping for CONUS. Please e-mail rushzeeman (at) gmail.com for payment details. I’m open to reasonable offers, but please don’t ask for my best price. All sales are final.

Run of the Mill Double Monks (includes cedar shoe trees and box) US 9.5D -  $325

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Peal & Co (by Crockett & Jones) Perforated Captoe Balmorals (includes cedar shoe trees, shoe bags, and box) US 9.5D - $250

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Allen Edmond Fifth Avenue Perforated Captoe Balmorals (includes cedar shoe trees, shoe bags, and box) US 9.5D - $130

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Tricker’s Handmade Wingtip Derby Shoes (includes cedar shoe trees, shoe bags, and box) UK 9.5 (fits like a US 10) - $150

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Red Wing Heritage Beckman Boots US (includes box) 9.5D - $130

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25
Jan
clamorist:

Brown calf & suede correspondent shoes at Charles Tyrwhitt

I’m seriously considering getting a pair of spectator shoes for summer. I can’t decide if these are more or less obnoxious than if they were done with white instead of suede.

clamorist:

Brown calf & suede correspondent shoes at Charles Tyrwhitt

I’m seriously considering getting a pair of spectator shoes for summer. I can’t decide if these are more or less obnoxious than if they were done with white instead of suede.

09
Jan

Allen Edmonds spectator shoes — Messing around with the custom-shoe creator is fun. Some concepts using their MacNeil and Strand models.

06
Jan
archiveofshoes:

-Need a deal for spring?-
Allen Edmond Hamptons -discontinued and cheap- for your inner Gatsby.

Sadly, no 10.5D left in stock. This would be the ideal summer shoe (along with white bucks).

archiveofshoes:

-Need a deal for spring?-

Allen Edmond Hamptons -discontinued and cheap- for your inner Gatsby.

Sadly, no 10.5D left in stock. This would be the ideal summer shoe (along with white bucks).

28
Dec
Allen Edmonds Harrison — Continuing my growing obsession with black shoes, I’ve really liked the look of these. Essentially, it’s the Park Avenue on the 333 last with a higher quality leather. While the rounded captoe of the Park Avenue is a conservative staple for suits, I really can’t help but like the squared off and angular toe box. 

Allen Edmonds Harrison — Continuing my growing obsession with black shoes, I’ve really liked the look of these. Essentially, it’s the Park Avenue on the 333 last with a higher quality leather. While the rounded captoe of the Park Avenue is a conservative staple for suits, I really can’t help but like the squared off and angular toe box. 

19
Dec

Grail Gaziano & Girling shoes — A few of my favorites after going through their photo galleries. Lately, I’ve become obsessed with black shoes over brown — not sure if this is a phase or a new direction. 

19
Dec
09
Dec
lacasuarina:

Thom Browne.
Coming Soon.

Someday I’ll cop a ridiculously over-priced pair of Thom Browne shoes, even if they are rebranded Sanders.

lacasuarina:

Thom Browne.

Coming Soon.

Someday I’ll cop a ridiculously over-priced pair of Thom Browne shoes, even if they are rebranded Sanders.

30
Oct

Review: Johnston & Murphy 1850 Gannett boot

I’m a very skeptical person. When a men’s footwear brand contacts me about reviewing one of their pieces of footwear from a new heritage line they’re producing, I’m often cautiously interested. But Johnston & Murphy’s new “J&M 1850” line has a surprising gem in it that I feel is worth talking about. 

Plus, Johnston & Murphy is letting me run a contest to giveaway a pair of their shoes or boots to one lucky Chicago-area reader (details at the end of the review). 

The "Gannett" boot caught my eye for several reasons. First, the boots have a Goodyear welt, which I feel is a necessary minimum for shoe construction if you’re going to be paying decent money and expecting the shoes to present a decent value in the long term. Shoes with a Goodyear welt are able to be resoled more easily, which means you can wear them for a whole lot longer. 

Secondly, this pair got my attention because they’re made from Horween leather. This leather, of course, comes from the Horween Tannery in Chicago and has a well-regarded reputation. 

Finally, what surprised me is that the boots are priced at $275, which places them well under the price of other Horween leather boots from other competitors by at least $100, if not more. 

Johnston & Murphy’s representatives sent me a pair as a review unit and I must say I’m rather impressed. If you’ve been hanging around places like StyleForum for a while, then you know that many of the posters there have a less-than-favorable opinion of the brand’s products from the past decade or so, despite having at one time been regarded as one of the premiere made-in-the U.S.A. men’s footwear brands. 

Indeed, these boots were made in India, which may account for the ability to hit a lower pricepoint. Regardless, the quality of materials and construction is — as far as I can tell so far — still there and they’re quite comfortable to wear. 

The leather seems about as good as pairs of Allen Edmonds that I own, although time will really only tell how it develops a patina. The suede portion of the boot feels durable and a bit waxy, so I wouldn’t worry about wearing these in bad weather. The interior of the boot is lined with leather as well.

One thing I liked about the boots is that the sole is a bit of a hybrid between a leather sole and a lug sole. Outright lug soles can be a bit clunky looking and in my mind limits them to being worn only with denim. These have a slimmer profile with a semi-lug sole and it’s hidden from view, making them wearable with chinos. Still, I wouldn’t wear them with dress trousers, as they’re definitely a more casual piece of footwear. And I do think they go best with denim.

Naturally, I do have criticisms. I wished the stitching was a darker brown or black colored thread instead of being contrasting — and the stitching could’ve been cleaner, too. This would’ve given the boot a cleaner look, in my opinion. Also, the laces felt kind of cheap and given the extreme amount of tension you’re probably going to put on these, I’d recommend getting thicker laces with better durability. 

The break-in period isn’t terribly long and they don’t feel extremely too-stiff to walk in on the first wear. You can even wear them with thinner socks and not feel like your ankles have been rubbed raw. Still, there seems to be enough room for slightly thicker socks for the cold-weather months. 

These boots have changed my perception of Johnston & Murphy (much how the Veblens changed my perception of Florsheim) and I think it’s worth taking a look over the future shoes in the J&M 1850 line to see what could be a good value from them — especially if better materials and construction are being used. 

And about that contest: I’ve got a voucher for one pair of J&M 1850 shoes or boots at Hanig’s Slipperbox, 2754 N. Clark Street, Chicago. The winner will be mailed this voucher and has to redeem it in-store — so, I’m making this contest for Chicago-area folks only (because if you don’t live in the area it’d be really hard for you to pick up your pair of shoes). 

How to enter: 

  1. Tweet this review using the hashtag #jm1850 and the URL: http://bit.ly/TS30YP
  2. Shoot me an email at thesilentist@gmail.com with your tweet. 
  3. Do both of these things by 12 noon CST, Friday, November 2nd. 
  4. Actually live in the Chicagoland area. 

I’ll take everyone’s names, do a random sort, assign a number and then use a random number generator to pick a winner. The winner will be contacted by email for their address so I can mail the voucher to them (or we can meetup in person). 

Good luck!

28
Sep

It’s on sale: Allen Edmonds — The American shoemaker is having their Rediscover America sale from now thru October 9th, with everything 15%-30% off at their site. 

Probably the best deal right now is their Fifth Avenue captoe balmorals, which feature a strip of broguing across the toe but nothing more. A good shoe that’s easily worn with a suit or blazer, now on sale for $229 (down from $335). 

For those of you with a more workwear vibe, the Long Branch wingtip boot is on sale for $269 (down from $350). It’s got a Vibram lug sole that would probably work very well to provide traction in rain, mud and snow during the winter. I think it’d go great with denim, casual chinos and maybe even tweed trousers. 

27
Sep
Brooks Brothers chocolate suede double-monk strap shoes — Goodyear welted in England. I’m sure a more educated person could identify the manufacturer. I think these would look pretty awesome with a pair of tan corduroy trousers and a tweed jacket. 

Brooks Brothers chocolate suede double-monk strap shoes — Goodyear welted in England. I’m sure a more educated person could identify the manufacturer. I think these would look pretty awesome with a pair of tan corduroy trousers and a tweed jacket. 

About The Silentist

A menswear blog on finding your personal style, written by Kiyoshi Martinez.

I work at Khaki's of Carmel and live in the Monterey Bay area. Formerly from Chicago.

E-mail me, I'm fairly nice: thesilentist@gmail.com

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