Dec
Hey Silentist, nice blog! That charcoal Lands End suit - how's the quality? looks nice enough, how is it 'in person'? I've bought their shirts and ties and love that they have the 'tailored' fit, but have wondered about their suits Thx! John
In all seriousness, buy one and see for yourself. They have a bullet-proof return policy.
I liked mine (both of ‘em) enough for the price to keep them and get them altered. Are they the nicest suits you’ll own and can buy? Nope. But for ~$200-250, they certainly are in my book. A lot better than the similarly (or higher) priced stuff from Topman, Zara, H&M, etc. Just my opinion though.
Dec
I have the same LE suit that you wore in your 11-30 picture. Mine seems much baggier so I assume you got both the jacket and slacks taken in? I need to find a tailor to do the same alterations, if so. Also, did you shorten the jacket at all because mine seems much longer?
Yup, definitely had my tailor do some work on it. The side have been taken in on the jacket, the trousers have had the seat and waist taken in and the legs tapered to a 7.5” leg opening.
I didn’t shorten the jacket, but I am 5’11”-ish and am wearing a regular. Maybe that’s the reason?
Oct
So I was reading through old posts and I read that you're a 38 long. I thought I was the only one! I rarely find jackets in this size, but you seem to have a ton. I know you thrift a lot, but when you buy new, where do you go for your size? It doesn't seem like any major brands carry 38L.
You’d be correct that it’s nearly impossible to find 38L off the rack. I think Tommy Hilfiger and Haspel have that size, but it’s pretty rare. Most brands have 38R and 38S.
Most of the time I go with a 38R and then let out the sleeves if possible. Also, I tend to show more cuff than the average person, so I can live with a shorter sleeve length.
Oct
HELP I just bought the j crew ludlow suit in charcoal, can I wear OCBD shirt with knit tie, also need recommendation on shoes to go along with for a wedding tomorrow, please help...
I’d recommend plain black captoes (like the Allen Edmonds Park Avenues), but you could also probably go with burgundy or brown captoes. Less formal would be brogues and wingtips. Tough to really give a concrete answer without knowing your budget or if you live in a location where you can snatch something up quickly.
Whatever you do, avoid wearing loafers with a suit.
ADDING from Anon:
“White OCBD with knit tie go well with the JCrew Ludlow suit?”
Some people don’t like button-down collars with suits, but it works if it’s casual.
Sep
I'm a student (on a budget around $300) looking to play dress up for a job fair. Is Jos. A. Bank any good?
I can’t recommend Jos. A. Bank to you. For that kind of cash, you should just order a suit from Lands’ End (jacket, trousers) in your size and then take the suit to a tailor to make it fit perfectly.
Plus, you can use coupon code SAVEBIG with PIN 1234 to get 30% off the highest priced item in your cart. That’ll put the price of the entire suit at $198.15 and leave you with $100 extra to do some alterations.
Sep
My favorite look from the Michael Bastian S/S 2012 collection.
That suit looks fantastic and you could easily break it apart to wear the jacket and trousers separately.
Aug
You can only afford to buy one suit, which color is most acceptable at weddings and funerals; black, navy or charcoal?
I would go with the navy or charcoal, especially dark charcoal. I’ve worn a navy suit with a black tie to a wake before. Maybe it’s a newer thing, but the immediate family of the recently passed didn’t wear black — on purpose. For them, they didn’t need to feel even more grim is what one of them told me. So, I think navy or dark charcoal would work for funerals. Traditional? No, but it still can convey a respectful tone.
Wearing black is such a powerful statement of formality and (sometimes) somberness, yet can also be interpreted as fashionable. I don’t think a black suit is very “conservative” in comparison to navy or dark charcoal. It’s a strong statement.
Aug
what do you like better: 2 buttons vs. 3 buttons on the front of a suit coat or jacket?
I don’t mind either, actually. Although, I wouldn’t buy a 3-button jacket if it wasn’t a 3-roll-2. I’d avoid ever getting a suit or jacket where the top button on a 3-button front isn’t rolled and the lapel clearly is formed with the intention of having the wearer button it.
Statistically though, I only have one suit with 3-buttons. Every other single-breasted jacket I have (suit or otherwise) is 2-button stance.
Jul
What's the difference between suit jackets and sportcoats/blazers from a design standpoint? They look the same to me.
I think Put This On gave a fairly comprehensive explanation between the types of suit, sportcoat and blazer jackets.
Some historical context is perhaps helpful. Suits emerged from formalwear and were meant generally to be worn in the context of business or other occasions calling for them. Sportcoats come from a sportswear background, in such activities like hunting and horseback riding.
The sportcoat includes details that make some functional sense. Pockets will have flaps to keep items securely inside (and rain, dirt, snow out). Often, the pockets will be at an angle instead of horizontal to make them easier to reach into while riding. The back will have a single center vent, allowing the coat to sit split over the horse’s back. Sometimes hunting and shooting jackets will have an extra collar tab and throat latch that allows the coat to be buttoned at the neck for warmth.
Of course, these are traditional details that really aren’t modern-day defining elements of a sportcoat, given that designers have borrowed and reappropriated them into suits (and vice versa).
Generally speaking, your sportcoat or blazer won’t have matching pants. They’re made of fabrics that full suits might not ordinarily be made of. They have patterns or colors that often aren’t made into full suits (think: patchword madras, tweeds, etc.). And they’re usually more casual than a suit jacket would be.
Jul
It’s on sale: Haspel seersucker suit — I’m fairly certain this is similar to the seersucker suit I own, although the stripe width on mine is much smaller and this one seems to be the typical width. Regardless, today’s Sierra Trading Post deal flyer brings the cost of this suit to under $100. (The only way to activate that coupon is through the email they sent out. If you want me to forward it to you, email me.)
In regards to the fit, I found my Haspel suit to fit pretty true to size. The jacket didn’t really need to be adjusted, however, I did have the trousers slimmed and seat adjusted. Another nice thing about the selection at STP is that they have short, regular and long sizing.
The one downside to this suit is that it’s 3/4ths lined. The upside though is that it’s half-canvased. You might be able to have a tailor remove some of the lining if you find it’s making you run a bit hot, but I’m not entirely sure.
As you’re probably aware, wearing a seersucker suit is probably a bit ambitious as a whole, but I’ve found it works well when you wear the items separate from each other. The jacket goes well with jeans, navy and grey trousers and go-to-hell chinos. The trousers work with almost any blue or navy jacket. Get a pair of bucks (dirty or crisp white) and you’re set to go.
Jul
Hey, hope all is well. I'm in the market for a navy, slim fitting suit. Something that would be appropriate for professional and social events. It would be worn lightly, so I would like for the material to be suitable for all seasons, more or less.
Last night I tried on a Hugo Boss, Theory, and the Tommy Hilfiger suit that you had mentioned a few days ago. The Theory suit was a winner. It was dark navy, 96% wool / 4% lycra, and fit like a glove. In my opinion it would need minor alterations, slightly shortening the sleeves and hemming the pants to no, or a very slight break.
I did some research this morning and it seems that the general consensus is Theory's quality isn't up to par with the price. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find this particular suit online for anything less than retail. I'll probably hit Nordstrom rack or something along those lines to see if I can find anything comparable or better.
Bottom line, I really like this suit, but don't want to get ripped off. Thoughts?
I’m having a hard time coming up with a figure of what that Theory suit costs, but seeing that their blazers run $500, that makes me assume that the suit plus tax and alterations will come near or above $800. If that’s an acceptable price and you’re happy with how it’ll fit and look, then go for it.
However, you should be aware that a lot of made-to-measure Chicago tailors start at around $800, too, for a suit (Nicholas Joseph, DeLouice, Sebastien Grey, Balani). There’s also traveling MTM operations with an in-person tailor like J. Hilburn and MyTailor.
I don’t have any experience with these operations or Theory suits, but if the money’s all the same to you and you have the time to wait for a MTM suit, then I’d definitely give that a look instead.
Hope this helps.
ADDING from the comments:
williamstelmach said:
I love the fit of Theory suits too. The quality issue comes from the fused vs canvassed. I think the suit’s retail is about $699. Go to Off Saks. They have them on sale and if you are a More member they are always 40% off or BOGO. Dont buy at retail
jhilla said:
I bought a Theory suit 7 mo’s ago and payed $500 total (30% off). They are tempting since the fit is slim but it’s true the quality really isn’t great for the price (especially if paying retail). It’s evident in the lapels and movement of the jacket
dieworkwear said:
You can find Theory suits on sale for like $300 at places like Off 5th, or when Saks has their big sales. The fit is good on some people. Construction isn’t great tho. Big prob is those wimpy lapels, but fit is 90% of anything anyway, so your call
docbound said:
My sibling has stuff from Theory, and their stuff is terribly overpriced for the quality. Ring Jacket Navy Wool Suit from The Armoury. Done deal.
Jul
Regarding: Mission Impossible: Suit, shirt, tie & shoes on $500 budget ... in less than a day
Great article, I think that is the way most people acquire their suits. They realize that they haven't worn their old one in years and have gained/lost weight, moved their stuff, moth holes, etc... and don't realize it until the last minute.
Do you know if those are the same suits that are always up on Gilt? I have always been curious, but not enough to pull the trigger and return it.
Thanks. I do agree that if you’re not dressing up every day, then you probably don’t know how that suit in the back of your closet fits. Worth doing every six months or so, or at the change of the season, to see how it fits and if you need alterations and/or a new suit.
I’m not entirely sure if they’re the same suit that ends up on Gilt, but I’d assume they might be. If you can make it to a Macy’s, then at least you could try them on and get an idea if you like them or not. Either way, Gilt’s non-final sale return policy is fairly decent now.
Jul
Mission Impossible: Suit, shirt, tie & shoes on $500 budget … in less than a day
A friend of mine came to me with a predicament: He needed a suit for a meeting and presentation he had to give. He didn’t have a pair of dress shoes. He didn’t have a tie or shirt. He didn’t even have socks. And the meeting was the next day.
Oh, and his budget was around $500.
In fairness, he’s living out of state for the summer to work on his startup and had moved all of his wardrobe to California, meaning he brought none of it with him when he came to visit Chicago. A company he’s working with found out he was going to be in town and wanted to meet with him, putting him in a bit of lurch.
I tend to agree with Put This On that you can’t really do “cheap/good/fast”, because you end up sacrificing so much along the way. However, I brainstormed what I think ended up being a decent outfit given the constraints. Here’s what I came up with for him over the lunch hour:
The Suit: Tommy Hilfiger “slim fit” solid-navy, worsted-wool suit, $220 at Macy’s

The suit I’ve linked to might be different than the one in the store (the link says “sharkskin” but that’s not what I’d call it in store, could be different but looks the same). My friend’s got a more athletic torso, so I figured the “slim fit” line might actually look decent on him without the need to taper the sides. I was pretty close in my estimations. The suit fit pretty well for an off-the-rack, no-time-to-get-altered option. The cuffs needed to be shortened, but he had to forgo that option because of time constraints.
The only alterations that needed to be done were the trousers to hem them to a slight break. The sales associate (evil!) tried to convince him to go with a full break, but after I cuffed the hem under a bit and said to look at the straight line the crease makes to your feet, he was convinced to hem them shorter.
I’ll give Macy’s credit though: they knocked out his alteration on the trousers the same day by 5 p.m. If you need a suit fast, be sure to go somewhere where you can pay for a “rush” alteration service — and make sure they do alterations, too.
The suit came to around $200 on sale and with tax and alterations. Not bad for something 100% wool and slimmer fitting. I suggested he get the cuffs shortened later, but it would look OK overall given the situation.
The Shirt & Tie: Tommy Hilfiger club-stripe tie and white “tailored fit” dress shirt, $50 at Nordstrom Rack
If you need a cheap shirt off the rack and a wide (and somewhat random) variety of brands and sizes, Nordstrom Rack is a pretty good option. I just randomly guessed my friend’s neck and sleeve size and happened to find a white dress shirt that nailed his fit on the first try. For $30, it certainly fell within budget and fit him great.
As for a tie, Nordstrom Rack has a pretty wide selection of stuff, but I went with a Tommy Hilfiger club tie because I knew the knotted fairly well (I have one) and certainly were cheap enough. For around $20, it would work.
Shoes: Allen Edmonds black calf Park Avenues, $200 at Nordstrom

Doesn’t need much of an introduction and my friend lucked out they were on sale. I wouldn’t say this falls under “cheap”, but it’s certainly a solid purchase that’ll actually contribute to a larger wardrobe over time.
So, that’s how I’d spend $500 to get a complete outfit — in a single day with zero other alternatives. Obviously, this isn’t ideal at all, but I don’t think at the end of it any one of those purchases were bad. And certainly, it’s better than shuffling into the Men’s Warehouse in a panic mode and buying whatever they throw on you.
Is there a better (cheaper, perhaps) way to spend $500 to get fully suited up? Sure. But within limits, I’d doubt it.
My friend said the meeting went really well and he got several compliments on his suit asking where he’d gotten it. So, that’s a plus.
Takeaway:
- It can be done — if you have prior knowledge of what various places carry, who does alterations, how the types of clothes fit and where current sales or discounts can be had. Otherwise, this would be a much more expensive exercise.
- Everything will be a compromise, but that doesn’t mean it has to be a bad compromise where you lose more than what you gain.
- Maybe traveling in a suit when you go on a plane is a really good idea, as Gay Talese likes to point out.
Jul
I've been in the market for a summer suit. Since it was more of a want than a need, I decided to wait toward the second half of the summer to get it, so I could get it on sale. I'm starting to look around to see what's on sale and what are the best options. I've been looking at the J. Crew Aldridge and a few of the Brooks Brothers ones. Any recommendations? The use will be future weddings, general dress for work and other occassions where I want to go further than the typical pants, shirt, tie combination. Thanks
At the price range you’re looking at, I’d go with whatever fits you better (or will fit better with alterations, that is). If it was my money, I’d probably go with the Brooks Brothers options for a few reasons. First, J.Crew’s final sales have no returns, so unless you know their stuff will fit you perfectly (or you’re buying in-store), then I’d be conscious of that. Secondly, all of J.Crew’s final sale suits (and it looks like a lot of their suiting) appears to be fully lined. That’s going to be dreadful in the summer and probably another $35 to have the tailor turn it into something partially lined, which is only partially better for the summer. Finally, I tend to think that J.Crew’s lapels are kinda too slim for my tastes (and, yes, I’m aware that I own several jackets that have slim lapels). Not saying that’s a dealbreaker, but something to keep in mind. If I were buying something where all things are being equal at money spent, I’d just go for moderate sized lapels.
Jul
Hello Dear Sir,
I really appreciate all the time you take to help us guys with a desire to embrace the sartorial culture.
Unfortunately, I rarely wear a suit. Let's say 4 times a year, and one of those times i need to wear a tux. I am sick of the rentals, and sick of buying cheap suits so i am trying to be prepared for the future.
So i really need a suit for those rare occasions, but to be versatile enough to be elegant for a wedding and also to wear it to a business meeting in the future. I've narrow it down to the Land's End Year Rounder Suitcoat. Plain Front Trousers? Navy for my first suit is fine right? BB Slim Shirt + Silk Grenadine Ties.
Also, for better or for worse, when i didn't have a clue about the way i wanted to dress myself i blew my money on a pair of black Ferragamo loafers. Is it a crime to wear these with the above suit, to let's say a wedding? Or what-are-you-thinking-about-buy some-god-damned-captoe-shoes.
Thank you for your time sir, and i really enjoy the WIWT series.
Have a nice week.
Thanks, taking the time is something I enjoy doing and others have definitely taken their time to answer my questions in regards to stuff sartorial. So, I’m happy to help if I can.
I’m going to break this down into a few parts. First, in regards to having to wear a tuxedo at least once a year, I’m going to recommend you buy one. For about the price of 1-2 rentals, you could’ve bought a full tuxedo, gotten it altered to fit properly, look better and gotten a shirt that also fits nicely.
I wrote about the tuxedo I bought last year and have a guide to buying a tuxedo (dinner suit) on eBay. Read over it and consider investing in a solid piece of formal wear. Occasionally, I’ll post links to tuxedos/dinner suits I find on eBay here as well. The one thing I didn’t touch on and would probably go back and do differently is use an online made-to-measure shirt service to make me a perfect-fitting tuxedo shirt. If you have a MTM service you trust and a good shirt to model your measurements off of, then I’d go that route. It’d probably be about the same price and fit better.
I’m going to tackle the shoe question next. It’s probably not going to look great with a suit. Passable? Maybe. Generally, I’d say loafers are too casual to be worn with a suit and you need some sort of laced-up shoe.
That said, I’m in the camp of suggestion you find a pair of plain, black captoes. They’ll be wearable with your tuxedo and suit at the same time. Not sure what your budget is right now, but Nordstrom has the Allen Edmonds Park Avenues on sale right now for $200. That’s about 38% off retail price. You could also try your luck on eBay to snipe a pair. Speaking of Ferragamo, I actually found my black captoes from them for $50.
And that brings us back to the suit. I’m a fan and wear several Lands’ End suits. The fact you can choose your jackets and trousers (yes, go plain front) separately is a good thing. Navy will work just fine for a color, although I think the dark charcoal is also perfectly fine.
I will say that you’ll definitely want to have your suit altered, unless you luck out with it fitting perfectly. The trousers will probably need to be tapered and taken in at the seat, too.
If you’re set on buying from Lands’ End though, then I would hold off for a bit. Subscribe to their email list and wait for the inevitable 25-30% off all items sales they seem to have every month. If you don’t think you can wait too terribly long, then sign up and wait for a discount code that’ll probably knock at least $50 off your order with free shipping.
In regards to the shirt, I’d go with Brooks Brothers ESF shirts, too. If you only really need one shirt, the only get one. However, if you feel you could use an oxford and another shirt, then go for the 3 for $200 deal. I love their OCBDs.
For a silk grenadine tie, I think Derek’s necktie series at Put This On did a great job with suggestions, but to add my two cents, the Kent Wang grenadine is phenomenal. I just received it today as a birthday gift from my brother and it knots amazingly and looks just great.
Hope this was helpful!

