27
Sep

Really appreciate what you're doing with your blog. I'm probably close to you in age, on a fixed budget, trying to up my solid style game -- sticking with basics, building the wardrobe slowly, etc. I've haven't made any great progress with shoes, though. For the summer I've got boat shoes, but now that fall is here I still have some old half-sneaker, half-something else brown leather Sketchers shoes. Suggestions for casual options? Chukkas? Thanks for your help!

- Asked by Anonymous

Truthfully, I’m terrible at dressing “casually”, and I also don’t recommend going too “cheap” on shoes. So, that’s a bit of a tough one.

On the low end for chukkas, you could definitely look at Clarks desert boots in the beeswax leather. My roommate has a pair and I think they’d probably do fairly well throughout the fall weather. I’m not going to tell you they’re waterproof or anything, but they’ll be decent in a light rain. For what it’s worth, I wore my sand suede desert boots in an outright downpour this summer and they’re just fine. I stuffed them with newspapers when I got home and let them dry out. Texture’s a bit different, but I’d say they’re a slight bit more comfortable now.

If you’re looking for a pair of higher-quality chukkas, then I’d consider giving Allen Edmonds a look right now. Their “Rediscover America” sale is going on and the Malvern is on sale for $276.25. Depending on your size, you might be able to score them cheaper on eBay.

I’d also give consideration to Charles Tyrwhitt’s chukkas (brown, dark brown, chocolate suede) which come in at $217 before shipping.

Speaking of Charles Tyrwhitt, give a look at their chelsea boots (black, brown). I’ve worn them with denim in the past.

I also think captoe boots look pretty good with denim — heck, any boot generally does. The Allen Edmonds Bayfield is $262.50 at Lands’ End right now (code SAVEFF with PIN 9132). Charles Tyrwhitt military captoe boots can be had for around $250 on eBay. L.L.Bean Signature captoe boots are under $200 and are Goodyear welted. If you’re willing to spend a bit more and are an eBay ninja, I’d look out for Alden Indy boots.

Hope this helps.

21
Sep

My Man, on behalf of every guy who enjoys learning how to properly dress, we thank you and all the #menswear society for all the time, effort, and sometimes patience you put into helping us without any economical interest. Seriously, thanks. Quick question. For that only white shirt i'll need. Brooks Brother's. Non-Iron or Dress Shirt? Point Collar or Ainsley? Thanks!

- Asked by enriquedlcm

Glad to help! As for non-iron or the must-iron, I honestly think that it doesn’t matter too much. Do you like to iron? Then get one where you will have to iron, as it won’t have chemicals in the fabric to keep it stiff. Do you hate to iron and generally find yourself rushed in the morning and can live with the chemicals? Then get a non-iron shirt. 

As for collar type, I think the “Ainsley” (aka, spread) is better on most guys. The point collar works best for those with longer, narrower faces. 

15
Sep
12
Sep

@ PTO's list - in Chicago, I may apply this one to "going out on the town" but I wear a shirt & tie sans jacket to work all the time. In fact, most of the Loop does as well. That'd be the only one on that list I'd disagree with. The rest are spot on - in fact, had to laugh at a few that I would consider no-brainers but are surprised people have to still be told of them.

- Asked by Anonymous

I agree with PTO’s point for the most part. To be blunt, it appears as if most men in the Loop do the “wearing a suit without the suit jacket” thing because it meet some sort of minimum dress-code requirement for their job — not because they think it makes them well-dressed. And so few people ever look as good doing this — let alone better — than if they had just worn the jacket.

Too many people choose a half-measure when they really should just go all the way.

12
Sep
08
Sep
mostexerent:

Print out & keep on you at all times
(via Look Indispensable | Five Ways To | The Journal | MR PORTER)

Might as well go through the checklist:
1/3 Blue suits (change this to blazers and sport coats and it’s a different ratio)
3/3 Grey suits
2/6 white shirts
4/6 blue shirts
3/10 navy socks
?/10 ties in sober colors (too lazy to count)
5/5 leather shoes
4/2 overcoats 
4/3 scarfs 
5/1 umbrella (1 amazing one, 4 various to keep in briefcase, car, etc.)
3/10 white handkerchiefs 
1/1 wallet
0/1 cardholder (not sure why I’d need one if I owned a wallet)
1/1 leather briefcase
1/1 leather holdall
0.5/1 decent pen and notebook (I could use a nicer pen)
0.5/1 “respectable” watch (I love my Seiko, but it’s no Rolex)
All of this said, I think it’s a decent checklist and advice, but YMMV. I prefer grey socks, for instance. White shirts are fine, but I like light blue better. I don’t carry a lot of handkerchiefs (I have a blue chambray I keep in my back pocket), but I do prefer pocket squares. I’d also put a mention for overshoes on there.
If you tend to work in a more casual environment, maybe swap out the 3x grey and blue suits for one of each and add in some grey trousers and blue blazers and an odd jacket or two.

mostexerent:

Print out & keep on you at all times

(via Look Indispensable | Five Ways To | The Journal | MR PORTER)

Might as well go through the checklist:

  • 1/3 Blue suits (change this to blazers and sport coats and it’s a different ratio)
  • 3/3 Grey suits
  • 2/6 white shirts
  • 4/6 blue shirts
  • 3/10 navy socks
  • ?/10 ties in sober colors (too lazy to count)
  • 5/5 leather shoes
  • 4/2 overcoats
  • 4/3 scarfs
  • 5/1 umbrella (1 amazing one, 4 various to keep in briefcase, car, etc.)
  • 3/10 white handkerchiefs
  • 1/1 wallet
  • 0/1 cardholder (not sure why I’d need one if I owned a wallet)
  • 1/1 leather briefcase
  • 1/1 leather holdall
  • 0.5/1 decent pen and notebook (I could use a nicer pen)
  • 0.5/1 “respectable” watch (I love my Seiko, but it’s no Rolex)

All of this said, I think it’s a decent checklist and advice, but YMMV. I prefer grey socks, for instance. White shirts are fine, but I like light blue better. I don’t carry a lot of handkerchiefs (I have a blue chambray I keep in my back pocket), but I do prefer pocket squares. I’d also put a mention for overshoes on there.

If you tend to work in a more casual environment, maybe swap out the 3x grey and blue suits for one of each and add in some grey trousers and blue blazers and an odd jacket or two.

21
Jun

HTTTGAP: On Odd Jackets That Are Not So Odd

Yup. Definitely a solid idea. Makes it super easy to incorporate F-U plaid pants and such.

17
Jun

Survival of the Fittest: The Russian Doll Approach

Via girouxmcisaak:

In this school of thought, you are looking to deal with the largest components before you even start worrying about the small details.  While the details make an outfit, they are worthless if you don’t have the basics down pat.  I’m going to walk you through a possible outfit with the types of things you can ask yourself.

Worth reading the whole thing. If you’re having trouble trying to figure out how to make an outfit work, this process simplifies it a bit.

15
Dec
urbanemenswear:

Musicians with style: Frank Sinatra

Reblogging this to include the Sinatra rules of style:
It takes two hands to put on a hat the right way: Back brim curled up,  front tugged down to a couple of inches above the right brow. 
Never wear brown at night. Never. 
There’s no excuse for brown shoes past sundown… Or white shoes. Or  anything gray, unless it’s deep charcoal. Or blue, unless it’s midnight  blue. In fact, let’s keep it simple: after dark, men should wear black.
Ties should be silk. And conservative. 
Cuff links always. But leave the fancy jewelry to Sammy. 
When dressing formally, a vest is better than a cummerbund. 
Don’t wear a tuxedo on Sunday. 
Having messy closets is like putting on clean clothes over dirty underwear. 
The shower is a great place to steam out the wrinkles in your dinner jacket. 
Orange is the happiest color. 
Don’t hide your scars. They make you who you are. 
When it comes to pockets, everything should have its own place. 
A pocket handkerchief is essential, but it needs to be perfectly folded. 
Shine your shoes. 
Trim. Buff. Clean. 
Take your hand off the suit, creep. 
I agree with most of these, except I’m not a fan of orange. And I do wear brown shoes at night.

urbanemenswear:

Musicians with style: Frank Sinatra

Reblogging this to include the Sinatra rules of style:

  • It takes two hands to put on a hat the right way: Back brim curled up, front tugged down to a couple of inches above the right brow. 
  • Never wear brown at night. Never.
  • There’s no excuse for brown shoes past sundown… Or white shoes. Or anything gray, unless it’s deep charcoal. Or blue, unless it’s midnight blue. In fact, let’s keep it simple: after dark, men should wear black.
  • Ties should be silk. And conservative.
  • Cuff links always. But leave the fancy jewelry to Sammy.
  • When dressing formally, a vest is better than a cummerbund.
  • Don’t wear a tuxedo on Sunday.
  • Having messy closets is like putting on clean clothes over dirty underwear.
  • The shower is a great place to steam out the wrinkles in your dinner jacket.
  • Orange is the happiest color.
  • Don’t hide your scars. They make you who you are.
  • When it comes to pockets, everything should have its own place.
  • A pocket handkerchief is essential, but it needs to be perfectly folded.
  • Shine your shoes.
  • Trim. Buff. Clean.
  • Take your hand off the suit, creep.

I agree with most of these, except I’m not a fan of orange. And I do wear brown shoes at night.

02
Nov

Agreed

mrsartorial:

acompletesuccess:

“Americans have grown too accustomed to being comfortable. I find a different kind of comfort when I know I look good.” ~ Tom Ford

Tom Ford tells it as it is. Guys all the time won’t buy the proper fitting suit because it doesn’t feel like a t-shirt or a hoodie, so they buy two sizes too big. They just don’t get it.

I’ll admit that whole “buy it baggy, because that’s how I wear everything else” was my philosophy (er… mentality) before I got set straight on what actually looks good. This stuff should be taught in school. Maybe home ec?

(via mrsartorial)

27
Oct

Rules Of Style: Lucas Ossendrijver, LANVIN head menswear designer

Via itsamazing:

(image via The Selby.)

Details:

1. You shouldn’t adapt to what people expect you to wear—you should make your clothes your own. For me what’s interesting is to wear the jackets and pants of suits separately.

Lots of good stuff here (although I’m not personally a fan of wearing suit jackets and pants separately). Click thru to read it all.

21
Sep
GQ: How to (correctly) do business casual — For one, don’t be that guy above. This guide doesn’t break any new ground, but it’s a great starting point. Basically, the important takeaway is making sure your clothes fit properly.
(Via nachobroadway)

GQ: How to (correctly) do business casual — For one, don’t be that guy above. This guide doesn’t break any new ground, but it’s a great starting point. Basically, the important takeaway is making sure your clothes fit properly.

(Via nachobroadway)

03
Sep
howtotalktogirlsatparties:

Gant By Michael Bastian Style Guide.

Definitely go give this a read. I can’t find anything in it that is disagreeable or bad advice. Plus, I learned something about washing sweaters (use shampoo, not typical detergent cleaners).

howtotalktogirlsatparties:

Gant By Michael Bastian Style Guide.

Definitely go give this a read. I can’t find anything in it that is disagreeable or bad advice. Plus, I learned something about washing sweaters (use shampoo, not typical detergent cleaners).

09
Aug

15 Basic Pieces Every Man Should Have In His Wardrobe.

Definitely check out this list from itsamazing. I think it’s definitely on point if this is more your style (ie: don’t have to go into an office with a jacket and tie everyday like I do) and I wouldn’t change very much other than to add a few things like oxford cloth button-down collared shirts and a pair of my beloved Sperry’s Topsiders for summer.

About The Silentist

A menswear blog on finding your personal style, written by Kiyoshi Martinez.

I work at Khaki's of Carmel and live in the Monterey Bay area. Formerly from Chicago.

E-mail me, I'm fairly nice: thesilentist@gmail.com

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