16
Nov
voxsart:

That’s Right: The Seersucker Roll Lapel Dinner Jacket.
Joseph Cotten, with Olivia de Havilland, 1964.

Sincerely wondering what trousers one would wear with such a jacket, but this has suddenly created a new want where there previously wasn’t one.

voxsart:

That’s Right: The Seersucker Roll Lapel Dinner Jacket.

Joseph Cotten, with Olivia de Havilland, 1964.

Sincerely wondering what trousers one would wear with such a jacket, but this has suddenly created a new want where there previously wasn’t one.

14
Nov
Can we talk about how great Kanye’s tuxedo is for a moment?
Double-breasted 2x1 configuration
Big shawl lapels that are fat along the bottom instead of the collar
And turn-back cuffs (nope, I think that’s a shadow)
I sincerely miss Kanye’s “Rosewood” movement. 

Can we talk about how great Kanye’s tuxedo is for a moment?

  • Double-breasted 2x1 configuration
  • Big shawl lapels that are fat along the bottom instead of the collar
  • And turn-back cuffs (nope, I think that’s a shadow)

I sincerely miss Kanye’s “Rosewood” movement. 

(via alexandergrant)

17
Oct
dimshapes:

Andy Warhol, two uncut photobooth polaroid self-portraits, early 1960s, Estimate $12,000 to $18,000.

The slim peak lapel and slim bowtie look done without irony. 

dimshapes:

Andy Warhol, two uncut photobooth polaroid self-portraits, early 1960s, Estimate $12,000 to $18,000.

The slim peak lapel and slim bowtie look done without irony. 

11
Sep
The Odd Tuxedo Trouser — I had an unfortunate accident that resulted in my tuxedo trousers being torn up beyond repair. Since then, I’ve contemplated the idea of the odd tuxedo trouser to wear with my now orphaned jacket.
Part of me wants to attempt the "Lipschitz Black Tie" rig, but I still want something slightly more formal, which means finding a trouser.
Matching the exact shade of midnight blue mohair on my vintage dinner jacket won’t happen anytime soon, so the only choice seems to be going for a trouser so obviously not matching.
A bold and obnoxious plaid seems to be the way to go. Plain front, grosgrain trim along the outseam, no belt loops and side adjusters will work just fine, I think.
thisfits replied:
Why not Black Watch?
I feel like Black Watch is a bit too confined to the holiday season. I’m thinking something with a bright, almost Nantucket red in it instead. I don’t want it to be muted at all. 

The Odd Tuxedo Trouser — I had an unfortunate accident that resulted in my tuxedo trousers being torn up beyond repair. Since then, I’ve contemplated the idea of the odd tuxedo trouser to wear with my now orphaned jacket.

Part of me wants to attempt the "Lipschitz Black Tie" rig, but I still want something slightly more formal, which means finding a trouser.

Matching the exact shade of midnight blue mohair on my vintage dinner jacket won’t happen anytime soon, so the only choice seems to be going for a trouser so obviously not matching.

A bold and obnoxious plaid seems to be the way to go. Plain front, grosgrain trim along the outseam, no belt loops and side adjusters will work just fine, I think.

thisfits replied:

Why not Black Watch?

I feel like Black Watch is a bit too confined to the holiday season. I’m thinking something with a bright, almost Nantucket red in it instead. I don’t want it to be muted at all. 

24
Aug
The 2x1 double-breasted, shawl-lapel tuxedo — This is definitely what I want my next tuxedo to be (with turn-back cuffs).  
(Image via womensweardaily)

The 2x1 double-breasted, shawl-lapel tuxedo — This is definitely what I want my next tuxedo to be (with turn-back cuffs).  

(Image via womensweardaily)

07
May
womensweardaily:

Tom Ford and Joan Smalls
Photo by Evan Falk

Absolutely kills it for black tie (again). Check out the turn-back satin cuffs. 

womensweardaily:

Tom Ford and Joan Smalls

Photo by Evan Falk

Absolutely kills it for black tie (again). Check out the turn-back satin cuffs. 

23
Jan

"Mad Men" season 6 promotional photos from AMC — Naturally, I’m excited for the return of Sterling Cooper Draper (Campbell?) and company. And it’s worth checking out these photos for the perfect execution of black tie. 

11
Jan
WSJ: Deconstructing the Tuxedo — Some people can’t leave well enough alone:

A detour at the tuxedo junction can mean wearing a velvet smoking jacket with jeans or even tuxedo pants with high-tops and a puffer jacket. 

I wouldn’t call that a “detour.” I’d call it “driving into the concrete median.”
And I about lost it at this sentence:

Mr. Lobban suggested wearing the cummerbund with the crew-neck tee as a contemporary evening look. “You’re in a T-shirt, so it has a more relaxed glamour,” he said.

Horror. Absolute, terrifying, tasteless horror. Has the whole world gone crazy? Am I the only one around here who gives a shit about the rules?

WSJ: Deconstructing the Tuxedo — Some people can’t leave well enough alone:

A detour at the tuxedo junction can mean wearing a velvet smoking jacket with jeans or even tuxedo pants with high-tops and a puffer jacket. 

I wouldn’t call that a “detour.” I’d call it “driving into the concrete median.”

And I about lost it at this sentence:

Mr. Lobban suggested wearing the cummerbund with the crew-neck tee as a contemporary evening look. “You’re in a T-shirt, so it has a more relaxed glamour,” he said.

Horror. Absolute, terrifying, tasteless horror. Has the whole world gone crazy? Am I the only one around here who gives a shit about the rules?

02
Jan

My tuxedo — Felt good to wear this last night. A breakdown of the fit:

Tuxedo: Vintage find on eBay U.K. It’s a midnight blue mohair with black satin shawl collared lapels with jetted pockets and unvented. Trousers have side adjusters and are flat fronted. I felt pretty lucky to buy this at the price I paid — around $200 — and it’s been a good investment, even if I only wear it once a year.

Shirt: Made-to-measure from Spoon Tailor in San Francisco. It’s a marcella bib front and has a lightweight poplin collar, cuffs, sleeves and shirt body. I opted for a fly front to avoid having to mess with studs and kept the mother-of-pearl buttons thin so they wouldn’t stick up under the placket. Rounded French cuffs and a standard spread collar with elongated points so they would stay under my jacket’s lapels. 

Cummerbund and bowtie: Both are from Fine & Dandy Shop. First time wearing a cummerbund this year and I didn’t find I minded it as much as I thought I would. 

Pocket square: Howard Yount. White linen. Simple and I wear it with everything else anyway. 

Cufflinks: Vintage mother of pearl and double-sided found on eBay. The only pair I wear with my French cuff shirts. Not bad for under $15. 

Socks: Marcoliani via Howard Yount. Black silk, thankfully blended with some nylon so they stay up on the calves. 

Shoes: Salvatore Ferragamo black patent leather captoes via eBay. I’m fairly certain I bought these for under $100 and they’ve held up nicely. To spruce them up a bit, I added silk laces. 

Things I would like to add in the future: white silk braces and braces buttons to my trousers. Also, perhaps having my tailor add a lapel buttonhole for a carnation. 

13
Dec

Rugby tuxedo fun shirts —  For those of you who attend events where the dress code is “creative black tie”, this might be a not completely terrible way to do it. Available (and on sale) in multi-colored stripes and blackwatch

(If you want something more tame, they have a normal, pleated-front shirt, too.) 

09
Dec
eojt:

Spotted - My friend Eric wearing a tux in Antarctica!this is not photoshopped.  

Can someone please, please!, give this a #menswear tag. Dude is literally keeping it icy.

eojt:

Spotted - My friend Eric wearing a tux in Antarctica!
this is not photoshopped.  

Can someone please, please!, give this a #menswear tag. Dude is literally keeping it icy.

01
Nov
O’Connell’s Clothing launches revamped webstore — The legendary trad men’s store in Buffalo, New York, has redesigned their site and made it tremendously easier to navigate (for instance: a “view all” option). 
One of the coolest items? This blackwatch dinner jacket from H. Freeman and Sons.

O’Connell’s Clothing launches revamped webstore — The legendary trad men’s store in Buffalo, New York, has redesigned their site and made it tremendously easier to navigate (for instance: a “view all” option). 

One of the coolest items? This blackwatch dinner jacket from H. Freeman and Sons.

17
Oct

New Brooks Brothers formalwear arrivals — As the holiday season comes up, those of you fortunate enough to attend so many black-tie events that you get bored of wearing your standard dinner jacket might consider other more “fun” options. Perhaps a tartan cummerbund will work. Or even a tartan jacket, if you’re feeling exceptionally bold. 

If you’re looking for something a bit more subtle, however, Brooks Brothers just released their velvet blackwatch tuxedo jacket. It’s tough to see the pattern in the photos, but it’s slightly visible on the product shot’s rear view at certain spots. I imagine this looks rather amazing in person. The downside is that the jacket features notch lapels, making this a much more casual jacket (beyond the fact it’s patterned and velvet). 

There’s also a grey shawl-collar jacket that I’m not quite sure how I feel about. It’s cut in Brooks Brothers’ “Milano” fit and unfortunately has flapped pockets. And I’m not sure about that use of grey. Part of me wants to give it credit for being different, yet part of me thinks it might make you look like you’re one of the service staff at an event. 

Of course, both of these are exercises in excess. If you don’t have a proper suit for black tie, then I suggest you focus on buying a tuxedo first. 

27
Sep

It’s on sale: Polo Ralph Lauren black tie accessories — Ralph Lauren is having a 25% off sale on select items on their site with code RLGIVING12. Frankly, there’s not much there to pick from that’s sale eligible, but I did notice their black batwing bowtie and cummerbund were on sale. 

Oh, and also available in black watch (bowtie and cummerbund), for those of you attending a more festive black-tie party this winter.

About The Silentist

A menswear blog on finding your personal style, written by Kiyoshi Martinez.

I work at Khaki's of Carmel and live in the Monterey Bay area. Formerly from Chicago.

E-mail me, I'm fairly nice: thesilentist@gmail.com

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