19
Nov
Helping get the word out. If you’ve never come by, then you should swing by and say hello!

Helping get the word out. If you’ve never come by, then you should swing by and say hello!

01
Nov
Thoughts on NorthernGRADE Chicago — When I first walked up to the space NorthernGRADE Chicago was to be held at, I thought I had gotten lost. It looked, from the outside, like a bit of an older factory, but once inside the space opened up into a wonderfully well-lit repurposed industrial area that made the market fun to wander around.
The selection of vendors complimented each other nicely. It was nice to finally see and touch the items you’ve only browsed .JPEG files of on the web. But the real joy was talking with the vendors themselves. 

Thoughts on NorthernGRADE Chicago — When I first walked up to the space NorthernGRADE Chicago was to be held at, I thought I had gotten lost. It looked, from the outside, like a bit of an older factory, but once inside the space opened up into a wonderfully well-lit repurposed industrial area that made the market fun to wander around.

The selection of vendors complimented each other nicely. It was nice to finally see and touch the items you’ve only browsed .JPEG files of on the web. But the real joy was talking with the vendors themselves. 

01
Nov

NorthernGRADE Chicago — Series 1

01
Nov

NorthernGRADE Chicago — Series 2

27
Oct
Reminder: NorthernGRADE today in Chicago — If you’re in the Windy City today, then you should really stop by and check it out. I had the opportunity to take a sneak peek at the setup and vendors last night and it’s really awesome with lots of friendly people. 
The event will be from 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. at Open Secret Studios, 401 N. Racine and is being organized by Pierrepont Hicks and Well-Spent with sponsorship from Haberdash and Penelope’s. 
Here’s who’s showing today: 
Penelope’s (Sponsor) - Chicago, IL
Haberdash (Sponsor) - Chicago, IL
Red Wing - Red Wing, MN
Tellason - San Francisco, CA
Winter Session  - Chicago, IL
Pierrepont Hicks - Minneapolis, MN
Oak St. Bootmakers - Chicago, IL
Independence - Chicago, IL
Portland General Store – Portland, ME
Field Notes - Chicago, IL
Archival Clothing – Eugene, OR
MidNorth Mercantile - Minneapolis, MN
Stormy Kromer – Ironwood, MI
Sir & Madame - Chicago, IL
Locally Grown - Des Moines, IA
Corter Leather – Boston, MA
Inland Clothing – Chicago, IL
Heritage Bicycles - Chicago, IL
Drift Eyewear - Chicago, IL
I’ll be there around noon-ish. Feel free to say hello!

Reminder: NorthernGRADE today in Chicago — If you’re in the Windy City today, then you should really stop by and check it out. I had the opportunity to take a sneak peek at the setup and vendors last night and it’s really awesome with lots of friendly people. 

The event will be from 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. at Open Secret Studios, 401 N. Racine and is being organized by Pierrepont Hicks and Well-Spent with sponsorship from Haberdash and Penelope’s

Here’s who’s showing today: 

I’ll be there around noon-ish. Feel free to say hello!

23
Oct

NorthernGRADE: Saturday, Oct 27 in Chicago

I wanted to make sure those of you in Chicago blocked out part of this upcoming Saturday for NorthernGRADE Men’s Pop-Up Market, which is making its debut here in the Windy City for the first time. The event will be from 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. at Open Secret Studios, 401 N. Racine and is being organized by Pierrepont Hicks and Well-Spent with sponsorship from Haberdash and Penelope’s

The list of vendors is rather impressive and it’s always nice to see things in person and meet the people making them. Here’s who’ll be there:

If you didn’t know, NorthernGRADE seeks to promote made-in-America brands and is organized by the people behind them. I think that’s a cool thing and am glad to see it’s expanding and growing. I plan on being there and you should go check it out as well. 

10
Oct
Bonobos Guideshop coming to Chicago — Menswear internet retailer Bonobos is setting up shop here in the Windy City to give you a place to try on their goods in person instead of trying to guess if something will fit you based on photos. 
This is a pretty good thing. I got their GOP chinos in a 33” waist and the actual waist measurement turned out to be 35”, so I had to send them back for an exchange (vanity sizes be damned). 
Anyhow, shop opens up on October 15 at 313 W. Superior Street, Chicago, IL, 60654. You can go here to book an appointment. 

Bonobos Guideshop coming to Chicago — Menswear internet retailer Bonobos is setting up shop here in the Windy City to give you a place to try on their goods in person instead of trying to guess if something will fit you based on photos. 

This is a pretty good thing. I got their GOP chinos in a 33” waist and the actual waist measurement turned out to be 35”, so I had to send them back for an exchange (vanity sizes be damned). 

Anyhow, shop opens up on October 15 at 313 W. Superior Street, Chicago, IL, 60654. You can go here to book an appointment

08
Oct

Haberdash Chicago — From the “No Shirt, No Shoes, No Service - Vol. 2” event. 

01
Oct

Menswear startup looking for digital ad consultant

A Chicago menswear startup is looking for a temporary, part-time consultant to help them with setting up their digital ad buys and working with referral networks. Yes, this is a paid opportunity. 

Process would involve advising on ad creatives, A-B testing, placements and configuration of campaigns, optimization based on performance of campaigns. Show up, tell them how to set things up and run it on their own and you get paid — simple. 

If you’ve got a background or interest in menswear online retail ad campaigns that’s awesome, but not necessary if you’ve done campaign setups in the past. Bonus points if you’re in Chicago, however, it’s not entirely necessary, either. 

If this sounds like the moonlight mercenary gig you’d be interested in doing, then e-mail me (kiyoshimartinez@gmail.com) and I’ll pass your information along and put you in touch. 

(P.S.: This job opportunity is not the company I work for, in case you were wondering.)

16
Aug
Hey #chicagomenswear! Several of us are gathering for trivia night and SHARK WEEK at Bucktown Pub tonight at 8 p.m. (fair warning: it gets super packed there for trivia, you might want to get there early). 
I know for sure that canarycoal, thenocoast, theodinspire and wellpressedgamer will be there. 

Hey #chicagomenswear! Several of us are gathering for trivia night and SHARK WEEK at Bucktown Pub tonight at 8 p.m. (fair warning: it gets super packed there for trivia, you might want to get there early). 

I know for sure that canarycoal, thenocoasttheodinspire and wellpressedgamer will be there. 

10
Aug

It’s on sale: Chicago Belt Co. — Use discount code “summer” to receive 40% off (plus free shipping) on all items at Chicago Belt Co. right now. The company features a great selection of cotton D-ring belts with ribbons featuring some unique designs to the Chicago area and surrounding Great Lakes region. 

Sale ends Monday, August 13th.

08
Aug

Indochino’s “Traveling Tailor” coming to Chicago next week — If you’ve been considering going made-to-measure in suits and shirts and looking online, then you know two things. One, that there’s a ton of options available now of places that will let you fill in your measurements and in a few weeks they’ll send you a suit or shirt. Two, that different operations require different measurements and interpret them differently. 

Frankly, I’m had 50-50 odds on whether online MTM services turn out a decent shirt for me. Some nail it, some miss completely. Because of this, I’ve stayed the hell away from online MTM suiting, because it seems a lot easier to mess up and a lot more expensive risk. 

So, I’ve made a personal rule to only do MTM where an in-person tailor takes my measurements. There’s a huge advantage to this process. First, the tailor knows the kind of measurements they want and the way they want them taken. No more guess work. Secondly, the tailor knows how their measurements will be interpreted at the point of production. Also, a good tailor will know how to account for sloped shoulders, different arm lengths and your beer gut. 

After becoming one of the largest online MTM suiting companies, Indochino’s now moving to set up temporary shop in physical locations with staff on site to take your measurements, talk you over details and you’ll even get to see finished pieces to get an idea of construction. Their “Traveling Tailor” program seems promising and makes the proposition of going for a MTM suit less risky. 

Their first location will be right here in the Windy City, from August 14 to August 20 at Union Station’s Grand Hall in Chicago. 

For those of you not in Chicago, I asked Indochino about any future cities they may pop-up in and while no plans are set in stone yet, you can go to this page and enter your email and city under “Where should we go next?” to ask them to consider visiting your neck of the woods. 

02
Aug
This is some exciting news from Haberdash in Chicago. Taking a look at the brand list for their rebranded “Bespoke” store, I’m pretty excited to have a place to try on Alfred Sargent and Carmina shoes and buy Drake’s London neckwear locally. 

This is some exciting news from Haberdash in Chicago. Taking a look at the brand list for their rebranded “Bespoke” store, I’m pretty excited to have a place to try on Alfred Sargent and Carmina shoes and buy Drake’s London neckwear locally. 

24
Jul
theodinspire:

Yeah, it’s late notice.
July 25, 8PM, Black Rock Pub

I might be able to make it, but I’m sure it’ll be a great time regardless. 

theodinspire:

Yeah, it’s late notice.

July 25, 8PM, Black Rock Pub

I might be able to make it, but I’m sure it’ll be a great time regardless. 

11
Jul

Suit Supply in Chicago — More than a week ago, I went to the Suit Supply store opening in Chicago. And after touching the clothing, talking to mrdanger and greyongray, trying a few things on and seeing the products for themselves, I’m really glad the retailer picked Chicago as their second state-side location. 

The interior is wide open and modern in its design. It’s not stuffy and covered in earth tones like you might find at other men’s clothing stores like Brooks Brothers or Ralph Lauren in Chicago. The alterationists are out in the open so you can see them work. The terrace is nice and gives you a great view of Oak & Rush. The walls and shelves are white and well-lit. There’s a minimal amount of table displays and a huge wall of suits. 

Just looking at the store, it creates the atmosphere of being more fashion-forward, more youthful and more wiling to bombard your eyes with every color and variation available in a grid-like layout. It’s more logic-based than trying to create a certain universe.

I didn’t get a chance to try on a full suit, but I did try on a few sport coats (Washington fit) and they definitely fit slim, only needing a sleeve alteration for me. The coats felt comfortable to move around in and the fabrics were impressive. The only jackets I’ve tried on that have fit better off-the-rack and needed no adjusting was L.B.M. 1911 — so only needing a sleeve alteration makes this a good competitor and alternative. 

What’s really great though is the pricing. $300 for a sport coat seems highly competitive to me. Suits starting at $400 makes them virtually a no-brainer for finding a suit under the $500 mark in Chicago. If I actually needed a suit in the future (unfortunately, I really don’t with my current job), then this would be the first place I’d go. 

On the topic of MTM, I talked with Zach, who is Suit Supply’s MTM specialist at the Chicago store, about their variety of options. Here’s how it breaks down:

Suiting: There are two lines available, one with more possible adjustments. Of course, price can be higher depending on what fabric you pick. Also, it should be noted that tuxedos can be done MTM at either price for no additional upcharge. All the usual options are available, including pocket types, linings, buttons, etc.

  • Red Line: a full MTM suit using 62 adjustments, starting at $849. (However, Suit Supply is doing a small promotion where a selection of fabrics are on sale for $669 through August 1st.) 
  • Blue Line: a semi MTM using 12 adjustments, starting at $599. 

Blazers can also be done. For instance a navy twill 120s Barberis wool can be done for $619. Shirting starts at $199, with 17 collar options for one program and 35 for the other with more than 750 available fabrics to choose from. Pants start at $320 and there are 22 possible adjustments for fit.

Zach also mentioned there are also models for MTM topcoats and fall fabrics will be in store mid August. 

If you’re in Chicago, then be sure to check them out. While it’s great they have online retail, it’s hard to beat putting things on.

(Forgive my lousy iPhone photos. For better images, check out what Yewon and Ryan shot.)

About The Silentist

A menswear blog on finding your personal style, written by Kiyoshi Martinez.

I work at Khaki's of Carmel and live in the Monterey Bay area. Formerly from Chicago.

E-mail me, I'm fairly nice: thesilentist@gmail.com

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