Feb
When you pull the waist of a suit forward, should its back be tightening against yours right away, or a little breathing room in between is fine? Thanks, bro.
Depends on your preference, but you should be comfortable and maybe have enough room to layer a sweater underneath.
Jan
I'm a dude with a gut (i.e. my waist is quite a bit larger than my hips). That's not going to change. I'm tired of finding belts unable to keep my pants where I want them, so I'm thinking of going the braces route. Two questions: 1) Does this sound like a reasonable decision? Will braces help? 2) Can a tailor/alterationist add buttons for braces to trousers or do they need to be attached during the construction of the pant?
Seems reasonable and a tailor should definitely be able to do this for you.
Jan
I just bought two new suits and have to get them tailored. I want to have them cropped kinda high to show off sock and/or shoes (im sure you're familiar with the look). Anyway, I was wondering if I could ask my tailor to make the pant legs skinner so that they will be closer to my leg. Im sorry if you dont understand the question, its the only way I know how to explain it.
Yes, you can have your trousers tapered. Just have a conversation with your tailor about it. Usually, I try to tell them the leg-opening width I want (when the trouser is laid flat). I go for about 7.5”, typically.
Jan
Hey - just thrifted 2 pairs of great flannel charcoal trousers. Legs need to be tapered though because they are pretty wide, when you bring your pants in to the tailor, how do you request the legs be tapered? Do you just say you need them slimmer or do you give a measurement for the leg opening at the bottom? P.S. love the blog.
I generally give a leg opening measurement that I’d prefer they be tapered through the thigh to. The more detail you give your tailor, the more likely you get the results you want. Communication is key.
Jan
Can shoulder pads be removed to give sportcoats a more natural look? I'm a pretty small guy 34-36 chest so I usually don't have a wide variety of sportcoats to choose from. If this is possible I might start doing this more often.
Maybe? Ask a tailor. I wouldn’t have any real expertise. I’ve only had padding removed from an overcoat, which helped tremendously. Still, I don’t think you’re gonna get a 36 out of a 38 in a lot of cases.
If finding jackets is tough in your size, it’s been highly recommended that folks in your situation check out the boys section of major menswear retails (ie: Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren), as they’ll have pretty top-notch stuff at cheap prices. Another, crazier maybe, option is to source from Asia, which cuts trimmer and shorter in suiting.
acuteobtuse said:
Yes, they can be removed. My tailor charged me about $20 for it, but I live in New York.
Jan
is it possible to tailor and dress up cords without looking like your other pants are at the cleaners?
Yes, you can have almost any pair of trousers altered, cords included.
As for how to “dress up” cords, I think the key is to use them like a cold-weather chino. Put it with a navy blazer and OCBD and you’ve got something that works.
Also, they’d probably look great with a chunky knit old-man wool sweater.
Dec
hola, i just had a question about a problem i've had when taking suit jackets to the tailor. when i want the midsection taken in, the tailor pins the suit from the back, which creates a good fitted look when you look from the sides or behind. but when looking in front of the mirror, the jacket still looks a bit boxy, failing to achieve that tapered look. is it the tailor (cause hes pretty old school in terms of style today) or the originial construction of the jacket? thanks!
Could be the problem with the front of the jacket’s cut? Hard to say really, as I’m not a tailor. He could be styling it a bit more boxy and if he’s not willing to do it the way you want, then time to find a new tailor or at least have a conversation.
Hard to really know w/o photos and such, but it’s probably something you should bring up with the guy altering your clothing. After all, he is working for you in this instance.
Dec
Question from a fellow Chicagoan - I received a new coat and though I love the fit and the style, I'm not too crazy about the length and would like for it to be shortened. Do you happen to know of any reputable tailors in the area that would be able to provide such a service? Thanks and happy holidays!
Heyo fellow Windy Citizen!
Any chance you can take it back and exchange it? I’ve never gone through the trouble of hemming the length of a jacket. Could it be done? Sure… but I’ve often heard mixed things about such an operation.
As for where to take it, I’ve been going to Paul Chang Custom Tailors for probably about two or more years now. He’s in the Loop on LaSalle and Lake. I’d bring it in and ask what he thinks. He’ll have a better answer for you than I would. He’s usually pretty blunt about whether or not a certain alteration should be attempted and if it’s worth the money.
afistfulofstyle said:
FWIW, In my experience if you’re moving it from below knee to above knee (or adjust in that range) you’ll be okay, if you’re shortening it from mid thigh to shorter, it may throw off the balance quite a bit and may not be doable.
Dec
Thanks for the advice I'm 5 8 and you looking and my style posts and how my pants jeans look what would you prefer for me no break or little to no break
I think no-break is what you’d want to go for, especially on casual stuff. Having a cleaner line will make your legs look longer.
A slight break might be more suited for, well, suits.
Dec
hi there, i recently jus bought a 3 piece navy suit from calvin klein. the jacket and pants are manageable, but the vest is a bit tight. i know if it doesnt fit in the shoulders you should put it back, but the deal was too good and i wouldnt wear the vest much anyway. but i was just wondering, would it be possible to let the vest out to have some room to move? thanks!
Maybe, but I doubt it. For a real answer, ask your tailor or alterationist. They’re the experts!
Dec
I've read a lot online about full verses half canvas jackets. I wonder what your take is on this subject and if a half canvas jacket is really a bad option for a neophyte entering the professional world?
It really all depends on what you can afford. Better to have one one well-fitting fused-canvas jacket that a closet full of ill-fitting full-canvased jackets.
I think I might have one half-canvas jacket in my entire wardrobe, so, no, it’s not a terrible option by any stretch. How it fits in the shoulders and around your body is going to be more important at this point than the various craftsmanship checkoffs.
Dec
Following up on yesterday's question about the alterations on the LE suit... How much does it cost to take in the seat and also slim the legs of the slacks? Also, does this change the way the pants flow if you alter them too much?
“It costs what it costs.” Sounds elitist to say that, but it’s true. Different tailors/alterationists in different cities and locations will charge different prices. My tailor in the downtown Chicago Loop charges higher prices because of costs associated with doing business at that location than a tailor might charge in the suburbs. Put This On has a price-range list of how much suit alterations cost.
Typically, I tell people to set aside $100-150 for alterations and always factor that into their purchasing decision. This is a big reason why I like thrifting and eBay, because the cost of adjustments is fixed and will more than likely need to be done on most items you buy. The cost of a garment though is highly variable.
As for how it changes the flow of the pants, I wouldn’t say they’re less comfortable to wear. Frankly, they’ll fit better to your body.
Dec
I have the same LE suit that you wore in your 11-30 picture. Mine seems much baggier so I assume you got both the jacket and slacks taken in? I need to find a tailor to do the same alterations, if so. Also, did you shorten the jacket at all because mine seems much longer?
Yup, definitely had my tailor do some work on it. The side have been taken in on the jacket, the trousers have had the seat and waist taken in and the legs tapered to a 7.5” leg opening.
I didn’t shorten the jacket, but I am 5’11”-ish and am wearing a regular. Maybe that’s the reason?
Nov
Hey, I've got a question about altering pants. Typically, how much can pants be brought in at the waist? I'm typically a 33, but for the suit that I wanted to pick up, they've only got 35 in stock. Is that too much of a difference to have them brought in and still look okay? Also, will I be looking at a higher cost because of the bigger tailoring job? Thanks
Eh, might be better if you altered from a 34 or 32. Two inches isn’t a lot, but I would think that they’d be cutting the fabric wider all around (seat, legs, etc.) than just the waist. You’d really have to ask a tailor if it would look right. I wouldn’t think it’d be a more expensive tailoring job than you’d probably already have to do to take in the seat and legs though than it normally should cost you.
Nov
Can you explain the #menswear obsession with patch pockets and soft shoulders? Why do so many want blazers and sport-coats that look this casual? I mean, sprezzatura is one thing, but come on.
Part of it is trend, the other is probably comfort.
I tend to like patch pockets with flaps, personally. I like having the pockets on the outside for comfort and visual style, and the flaps for the practicality of keeping the objects in them from falling out while moving.
As for the soft shoulder, I just think it’s pretty comfortable to wear and the casual look tends to work for most modern workplaces outside of industries where suits are standard.
If you don’t like it, then you don’t have to wear it. For me, it depends on the situation and what I’m doing.
About
A Chicagoan working on developing his personal style
E-mail me, I'm fairly nice: thesilentist@gmail.com
Popular topics:
- Best of The Silentist
- Product Reviews
- What I Wore Today Archives
- Personal Style
- Basics of Style
- Business Casual Style
- What to Wear for Your Internship
- Wedding Attire
- Ramen Noodle Budget
