Farewell to Flannel

Despite it being technically spring for more than a month, it’s only been recently that it actually feels like the correct season. I’m no fan of cold, miserable weather, but I am a fan of wearing flannel. I’ll almost miss putting these suits away. 

I made good use of these suits through the winter and “spring”. Both are made from a hefty 340g (~12 oz.) woolen flannel from Vitale Barberis Canonico. The hand on the fabric feels substantial and the drape impressive. 

The suits are probably bolder than what many would wear in professions that still require a suit, but I’ve always enjoyed a good pin or chalk stripe (and one of the advantages of my current job – PROPERSUIT – is the freedom to wear clothing I find exciting). 

The first suit is a dark charcoal with a rust chalk stripe. I wanted to try a double-breasted jacket and trousers with single, forward pleats. I also opted to do a “tailor’s fly” with buttons rather than a zipper. 

The royal blue flannel has a double chalk stripe in silver grey. I decided to try a three-piece with a 6-button front that brought the waistcoat up higher toward the neck. The jacket is a 3/2 roll with jetted pockets and a jetted ticket pocket as well. The trousers have side adjusters and braces buttons in the waistband. 

The shoulders on both suits are more traditional, having a bit more padding. I wouldn’t personally use this for more casual fabrics, but it made sense on these suits.

At the time I was having these suits made, I was binge-watching “Boardwalk Empire”. The suits on the show are obviously of a very different cut, but what really struck me was the vibrant array of flannel fabrics worn by the likes of Nucky and Chalky. You could tell the cloth had a substantial weight and the molted surface of flannel gave the bright checks and stripes an elegant nuance you just don’t find often in men’s suits. 

I’m not a fan of dressing in costume of an era passed, but I’m always drawn toward fabrics that have a bit of something different about them than the norm. Flannel provides a great opportunity and doesn’t need to always be a shade of dull grey in your wardrobe. 

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Suits made-to-measure by PROPERSUIT, neckties by Vanda Fine Clothing, shirts by Hugh & Crye, pocket squares by Rubinacci & Vanda. 

Photos by John Cousert